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Japan A to Z

Notes on traveling in Japan for people who already know it, focused on judgment rather than coverage.

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#212 Tokyo’s Hidden Kilometers

Why a day of sightseeing can turn into a ten-kilometer walk before you know it — and what that means for planning a day in Tokyo.

#211 Look Again

How small shifts in perspective can lead to the quiet discoveries we remember most.

#210 Tokyo at the Right Hour

A summer itinerary that asks less of the body while allowing the city to offer more.

#209 Japan Before the Heat

A side of Japan that disappears before most travelers see it.

#208 A Hot Spring That Barely Feels Hot

How cool carbonated water makes Lamune Onsen so hard to leave.

#207 Tonkatsu Is Not Only About the Pork

Why the cabbage beside it may matter more than you think

#206 Hell Steaming: A Taste of Kannawa

The heat beneath your feet becomes part of the meal.

#205 Beppu, the City That Breathes Steam

A photo walk through Japan’s great hot spring city, where steam rises into ordinary life.

#204 Before Climbing Mount Fuji This Summer

Routes, reservations, weather, and the small details that matter

#203 How to Read the Imperial Palace

What guiding a group through the East Gardens revealed about one of Tokyo's most visited places.