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Cocktail Culture and the Dearth of Modern Classics
Live from the hidden heart of Da Nang, Vietnam, Makara at Large serves up spirited free-ranging dispatches on cocktails, cuisine, culture, and community.
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Cocktail Culture and the Dearth of Modern Classics

"Between thought and expression lies a lifetime." ~Lou Reed, Some Kinda Love

(with apologies to Kerouac)

Tiki and the Jade Tile Breezeway

Simple classic cocktails, such as Negronis and Manhattans, have long been venerated as the apex of cocktail craft.

In Da Nang, central Vietnam's principal city, a morning bowl of mì quảng—the regionally famous noodle dish with wide rice noodles, subtly spiced sauce, local herbs, and fresh shrimp, chicken, and egg—can be had for just 30K đồng, about $1.15.

“…the night makes all plans vanish, makes all signs ambiguous, obliterates every trace of certainty.” ~Italo Calvino

Tiki bars are a distinctly Western invention, but they owe much of their aesthetic and mythos to real and imagined visions of Asia and the South Pacific.

When the majority of travelers think of Da Nang, it’s the beaches that come to mind: long stretches of sand, resort complexes, the predictable rhythm of leisure.

When most people think of a tiki bar, they picture something bold and unmistakable—a building shaped like a grass hut or a ship, or decorated with oversized tribal motifs, loudly announcing its presence with neon signs and island music. But the reality of tiki bars—especially the best and most interesting ones—is often quite the opposite. Martin Cate, founder of San Francisco’s legendary…