What I am writing when I get back
Annual leave until September. When I'm back: DNA repair enzymes, haircare through perimenopause and menopause and Mothered Silk protein serum.
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Latest episodes
Epii HPT6: Sorry, It Won't Rebuild Your Skin
Can Epii's HPT6 Drop and Cream really firm skin in the "deeper layer," as the box says? A cosmetic chemist's formula analysis and what the evidence says. Free and independent.
Shiny, not dewy: how to keep oily skin calm in a heatwave
A cosmetic chemist on why heat makes oily skin worse, the science-backed routine that calms it, the summer breakouts that aren't even acne and why 10%-20% niacinamide might work better for oily skin.
No, ANUA Azelaic acid serum isn't a scam
A cosmetic chemist on neutralised azelaic acid: why it's not a scam, and what it can't do.
Pregnancy Skincare: The "Avoid" List Is Way Shorter Than You Think
By a cosmetic chemist and biochemist: what to change, what to keep, and why the advice never lines up
Medik8's Exo-PDRN Prismatic+: What's Real, What's Marketing, And Whether You Need It
A chemist's full INCI breakdown of the most-asked-about serum of the year. I bought it with my own money. No brand contact, no PR sample, no affiliate links.
Your 30s are not the decline they're selling you.
A cosmetic chemist on the skincare routine that matches the biology, not the algorithm. Protocol first, then the science, with every claim linked so you can check my working.
Can sunscreen reverse sun damage on its own?
A biochemist on how sunscreen lets your own biology repair sun damage, what the evidence supports. Plus whether you actually need it indoors, by your phone or computer, or when the UV index is zero.
Does Your Skin Really "Absorb Everything"?
A cosmetic chemist on how little your skincare actually gets past the surface. Clean beauty, wellness, and whether a sunscreen causes cancer.
I'm a cosmetic chemist. Stop blaming 'pore-clogging' ingredients. Here's what really clogs skin, and how to clear it.
A biochemist's look at what really triggers clogged pores: sebum, dead skin, and formula behaviour, plus the evidence-based routine that keeps them clear.
No, Tretinoin Isn't Killing People. Reading the Papers.
A close look at the claim that tretinoin causes deaths, thins your skin, lets pollutants into your bloodstream, and is the same compound used in chemotherapy. And what the actual papers say.
"Anti-ageing" creams won't fix menopausal skin. Here's what actually does.
A cosmetic chemist/biochemist's deep dive into the molecular biology of menopausal skin, the topical oestrogen evidence, and the protocol that actually works.
Your "dark spot" serum won't fix those red marks. Here's what will.
A cosmetic chemist explains why post-acne red/purple marks are a blood vessel problem, not a pigment problem, and what actually fades them.
Your melasma serum isn't working. Here's why.
A cosmetic chemist breaks down the ingredients that work, the ones that don't, and why melasma needs a protocol — not a miracle serum.
When the Formula Becomes a Prop: A Cosmetic Chemist on What the Texture Trend Is Actually Costing Us
A professional opinion piece
Fungal Acne: Everything You Need to Know (Backed by Science, Explained Like a Friend)
Written from the perspective of a cosmetic chemist and biochemist with links to every study so you can check the receipts.
How to Tell Whether a Peptide Serum Will Actually Work
A cosmetic chemist's guide to the science of penetration, concentration, and formulation - everything brands don't tell you, decoded.
How to Heal Your Damaged Skin Barrier While Managing Acne: A Science-Based Guide
The barrier-acne cycle: why your skin stays inflammed, and the evidence-based way out.
The Whole Truth About Milky Toners.
What milky toner actually does, who's most likely to benefit (or skip it), whether it really messes with serum absorption, and how to skim an INCI list to spot a genuinely well-formulated milky toner
What's best: Tretinoin 4x/week or Retinal Daily?
This is among the most asked questions. Let's explore the current evidence and see if we can hopefully find the answer.