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Cucumber and avocado gazpacho and addictive carrots: when it’s too hot to cook, contrast, texture and seasoning bring dishes to life Heat brings caramelisation, char, the slow collapse of ingredients into something rich and deep, but when it’s too hot to cook, flavour has to be built differently – through contrast, texture and a more deliberate hand with seasoning. Salt, in particular, becomes…
Restaurant critic and award-winning food writer Jimi Famurewa travels from Belfast to Edinburgh and London to meet the inventive DIY chefs stretching US, Italian and British pizza styles to come up with delicious new flavour combos Continue reading...
A sweet, tangy and spicy chicken dish that matches well with crisp fried potatoes and apricot-glazed spring onions I use this exact cooking method to make every kind of traybaked chicken, and this one is a blend of store-cupboard staples with the addition of fresh lime to push the flavour. Then, I love hash browns, röstis and latkes – give me crispy fried potatoes of any description, and I’m a…
A cook-your-own adventure meal, with all manner of fillings and servings to explore The Mexican equivalent of a cheese toastie, but even quicker to make, these are the perfect summer holiday or weekend lunch, because everyone can choose their own fillings and help cook. Plus, this recipe is just a jumping-off point – once you’ve mastered the method, you can fill them with anything you like ……
Home cooking, but in the most complimentary sense Some developers would rip the soul out of a 1930s banking hall, but Kinz , a new all-day Lebanese brasserie housed in a former Lloyds Bank in Notting Hill, instead makes a feature of its chunky vault door. Where W11 residents once kept their cash, diners can now take a seat and sip Lebanese wine from the Bekaa valley . After all, what visit to the…
Brioche buns make an indulgent, rich home for a burger, but which have the perfect fluffy texture and which come with a chemical-like plastic aroma? • The best supermarket veggie burgers Brioche is a fabulously luxurious dough enriched with eggs and copious amounts of butter (often 25% or more of the total dough). Supermarket brioche buns, however, are a little different: the best products contain…
Change up your seasonal salads with an easy-to-prep dish that centres on slow-cooked rice and a lively Asian dressing Here’s a recipe straight out of the low-effort, high-reward school of cooking, in which you chop the vegetables and nuts, boil the rice and beans, throw over a dressing … and it’s done! It was written in the middle of a heatwave, when cooking felt impossible, but I couldn’t look at…
A vibrant and playful twist on the classic cocktail, with a bright, citrus kick and a subtle herbal note Fresh, vibrant and full of summer character, this is a playful twist on the classic. It’s juicy and refreshing, with a bright, citrus kick and a subtle, herbal note that keeps things light and balanced. It also works very well with non-alcoholic tequila. If you like, double the syrup…
Parts of the UK are roasting but some of us are glad to turn the oven on. Bring on the curries and pasta pies Sign up here for our weekly food newsletter, Feast I don’t wish to boast, but I’m typing this with a jumper on. Not because my flat has air-conditioning, but because it doesn’t – and the relentless heat of south-east England was having a seriously detrimental effect on my productivity…
Why waste the tastiest bit of the cheese? Although parmesan rind is tough, it has just as much, if not more flavour than the cheese from inside the wheel itself. It can be used just as it is to flavour stock or risi e bisi (Venetian pea risotto), but grating it opens up a whole range of other uses, such as in my mac and cheese “rinds ” and today’s parmesan rind pesto. The flavour is very powerful,…
The gooseberry makes itself welcome in both sweet and savoury settings: in a tarte tatin, in a lively salad for spicy, herby pork chops and in a crumble custard cake In the summer glut of saccharine fruits such as strawberries and peaches, gooseberries may not be the ones you reach for first. But behind their strange burr of fine fuzz, these translucent, marble-like fruits offer a complex, defiant…
Bullgogi’s largely automated hospitality will either delight or horrify you, but the food is serious Bullgogi , a whopping new interactive multiscreen Korean restaurant in Manchester’s Piccadilly Plaza, has arrived, heralding the end of traditional hospitality – again. It’s the UK’s largest Korean barbecue restaurant – 165 covers, traditional tabletop grills at every booth – but has no servers…
With its sweet, caramelised edge and soft, creamy apple centre, you’ll be thinking about this cake for months after the first bite For better or for worse (definitely for worse), this column is one-way. If we could talk, I’d ask you about the most mindblowing things you’ve eaten in your wild and precious life (feel free to use the comments). This year, for me, it was chef Lili’s apple cake at her…
A frozen piña colada-style boozy drink/dessert A frozen drink and a classic dessert all rolled into one. Instead of piña coladas and getting caught in the rain, we’re whipping up these and manifesting a sunny summer. Jayma Voorheis, general manager, Half Cut Market , London N7 Continue reading...
A jamboree of juicy stone fruit and summer berries with a crusty, sugary top brings a riot of textures and colour to your dessert table A giant American-style shortcake is one of summer’s great celebrations: tender, buttery shortcake, softly whipped cream and an extravagant tumble of fruit. Rather than prescribing a single combination, I like to let the market decide. Choose whatever looks and…
From a wild corner of southern France, these crisp, minerally whites and silky red blends are unforgettable wines We all have our coming-of-age story: a transition to adulthood defined by emotional growth. I’ll let my friends be the judge of whether mine’s happened, but in wine terms, I can pinpoint my coming of age to the day I first tasted a white from Côtes Catalanes IGP . What was this nectar?…
There is no exact plant-based substitute – the ideal option will depend on the dish. But, ultimately, it’s easiest to choose a recipe that doesn’t require gelatine How do I go about substituting gelatine sheets for a vegetarian setting agent? Sarah, Aberdeen “The truth is, there’s no exact substitute for gelatine, because it has an incredibly unique texture,” says Richard Phillips, head of pastry…
Enjoy this big bowl of refreshing noodle soup with turmeric and coconut milk spiked with a kick of chilli This is exactly what I want to eat when I’m under the weather: a big bowl of Thai-inspired, soupy noodles with turmeric and coconut milk, all spiked with chilli. It’s a soup base that adapts perfectly for vegetarians (add cubed tofu) or leftovers (shredded roast chicken). This makes a lot of…
Chez Rose offers a sort of hospitality that feels centuries old, but when done well, will never be old hat Chez Rose has just appeared on Pollen Street, Mayfair, but to the casual passerby, it looks as if it could have been established in 1974. This is, of course, poudre aux yeux ; until recently, this was Jason Atherton’s Little Social. Yet, with some strategically placed tables en terrasse ,…
Our writer spent the hottest weeks of the year churning through the top ice-cream makers, from compressor models to the cult favourite Ninja Creami. Here’s the scoop • Kitchen gadgets top chefs can’t live without I love a scoop or two of the good stuff, even more so when the mercury hits 30C and ice-cream starts feeling less like an indulgence and more like an essential survival tool. This is why…
Cherry pops and citrus zings in this twist on a Hemingway special A bright, citrus-forward riff on the classic Hemingway special , with cherry depth and a clean white rum base. Daniel Emson, bar manager, The Culpeper , London E1 Continue reading...
It is often the key secret ingredient in a lot of white wines, but the unsung hero of Sicily’s vineyards is taking its place in the sun Depending on where you buy and drink wine, catarratto will be very familiar or very obscure. There was a time in the 2010s when I’d have put good money on it being the house white in half of Hackney’s restaurants, and if you’ve ever picked up a sub-£15 natural…
Sweetness and spice abound in this refreshing summer salad When the weather is glorious, I have very little desire to do any “proper cooking”. Turning the grill on for about 15 minutes is the maximum amount of heat I want to subject my home to, which is why, in the summer months, I eat this sort of salad on repeat: stone fruit with golden slices of halloumi is my favourite pairing. Add a little…
You’ll leave fed, challenged and gastronomically punch-drunk Nico Simeone is the Scottish-Italian chef behind the Six by Nico restaurant empire, and Lennox, in Spring Gardens, Manchester, is his new baby. If you are unfamiliar with Six by Nico, it’s a fever-dream version of fine dining: Simeone conjured up themes such as “The Chippie”, “ Italian Road Trip ” and “ Ancient Rome ”, then served six…
Perfect for an al fresco lunch spread, these bruschetta come together as quickly as they disappear … Fresh, light but filling – these bruschetta are beautiful to bring outside as part of a lunch spread. They take minutes to whip together (sorry) and, for extra Marie Antoinette at Le Petit Trianon vibes, pick mint (or/and baby courgettes) from your own garden. You can get ahead by making the…
Vieni dances a fine line where British Italian restaurants often fail Vieni, an Italian restaurant in the Jewellery Quarter of Birmingham, is small, Sicilian and scrappy. The Instagram bio of its chef and founder Angelina Adamo reads, “Bite off more than you can chew and learn how to fucking chew”, which feels like a battle cry for almost everyone stepping into hospitality, especially independent…
This colourful platter makes a simple shared meal feel like a special occasion There’s something festive about bringing a whole roast feta to the table, and even more so when it’s thickly covered in toasted pine nuts. Tenderstem broccoli is a real treat in this dish, and my top tip is to blanch the spears in boiling water before you roast them – it really improves their texture. Crunchy,…
The sweetness of roast vegetables and raisins contrasts with balsamic, pine nuts and capers in a vibrant dish that you’ll want to eat on repeat Being in the business of recipe writing means I am always seeking the new, always moving on and rarely resting on a single dish. Until summer starts knocking, that is. The sun makes me want to slow down, and I find myself wanting a variation of vegetables…
Savoury, nutty, salty-sweet – and delicious with rice Here are two things about aubergines that you may not know: first, they are giant berries (!) and, second, they’re roughly 92% water. The latter is important, because to get this mighty berry to reach its delicious potential, we need to dehydrate it (that is, remove as much water as possible and then hit it with lots of flavour). You could fry…
These vegan burgers are child’s play and fun to make, too This is exactly my kind of recipe. It’s easy, flavourful and, as a bonus, it’s crispy, too. In fact, it’s so simple, you could make the mixture with your eyes closed or, better still, give it to a six-year-old to do (they could also make it with their eyes closed). The key is the black beans, because they crisp up perfectly, and the…
A classic side that effortlessly accompanies almost any summer meal – customise to your taste with homemade mayo and/or fistfuls of fresh herbs This summer classic is the happy proof that not all things labelled as salad have to feel like penance for helping yourself to all the fried chicken or barbecued halloumi. Far fresher and zingier than gloopy, ready-made versions, this is the perfect recipe…
