Thai food was undergoing a Golden Age in Red Hook 11 years ago, when three restaurants within close proximity redefined the cuisine. Pok Pok, from Portland, Oregon, was in its prime, grilling chickens in the back yard, along with homegrown northern Thais Chiang Mai and Kao Soy — the latter ladling its namesake soup (more often spelled khao soi), and offering dishes a smidge spicier than the average Thai in town.


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