lessons from the camino norte

lessons from the camino.

Throughout history, pilgrimages have been an essential part of human life to reconnect with oneself, nature and spirituality. There’s a reason, why walking and nature have been a fix-all remedy for the woes and stresses of life. It seems to seamlessly soothe all pains, doubts, and worries.

A couple of weeks ago I found myself weighed down by an overwhelming feeling of anxiety. It felt as though I’d been plagued with all the emotional ills- experiencing jealousy, comparison, uselessness. Life felt sluggish and I felt stuck in a rut, unable to sleep restfully and tormented by ceaseless thoughts. I’d been talking into the air about wanting to do a solo trip throughout spring, however hadn’t taken action or planned anything ahead, unsure about where I’d go, what I’d do, how much it would cost me. And so, I took the step of taking a day out to walk the Seven Sisters cliffs in southern England. Taking a solo-day out was all I needed to replenish me with the confidence of taking a larger step.

I’d heard incredible things about the el camino de Santiago, from a friend who had walked the whole stretch a couple of years ago. Incited by a force around me, whispers in the wind, and a gut-feeling that I should just act-and-do I booked £75 tickets flying out to Bilbao, and back from Santander with no plan and 5 days left to prepare.

Over-planning, I would say is a plague to our generation. It is said that our generation will be the first to have more memories of other peoples lives than our own, and I am no (holy/remarkable) exception, I’m the first to look up where-to-go, what-to-do, what-to-see, photos and videos of every must-hit before seeing a place. And don’t get me wrong, I think guides are incredibly useful but there is always something insanely exhilarating and special about discovering places you’d never yet seen online. It’s what I adored about Paris- exploring hidden passages, alley-ways places that were perhaps boring to others and yet for some unknown reason felt particularly special and connected for myself. Uniquely my own. And setting off spontaneously on a walking adventure was the ultimate let-go release, disconnected to all noise.

With only 4 full days, I walked from Castro-Urdiales to Santander. And spent my final day exploring the Santander coast and city. It’s incredible how in such a short amount of time I was able to feel so good. I feel I was able to capture and understand the spirit of the camino, and am now eager (and certain) I will return for a longer stretch.

Here are some lessons and reflections I captured in such a short space of time:

1. quiet is healing

   As a self-proclaimed chronic over thinker, I was absolutely certain I would spend my 30km walking stretches thinking through all my life questions, when in fact the absolute opposite happened. My internal monologue was silent, with the occasional “oh that’s a pretty butterfly” “hi

   cow” “aw baby goats!” “aw wow, beautiful”

   “simply be present” is far easier said than done in our modern lives, awakening pumped full of adrenaline and ready to tackle and endless to-do-list, and feeling pressure from all ends. I suppose the camino forces you to just focus on the task at hand which is simply : walking through nature. Being rid of all questions surrounding purpose, direction and meaning, resulted in me feeling an incredible light-ness of being, and a joy and peace that made me feel connected to my true-self. It was quite simply beautiful. I suppose when your direction is the next town and your purpose is to walk, eat and sleep, life feels manageable- and more- wonderful in the simplest way.

   Dr Dacher Keltner has studied the feeling of ‘awe’ extensively. He explains how experiencing wonder, allows us to step outside of ourselves and shifts our neurophysiology resulting in greater internal peace. A diminished focus on the self, results in an appreciation and focus on our connection to the world as a whole. There are many ways to experience awe: a concert, nature, receiving kindness, dancing… and the awe of five days on the camino has truly felt like a natural cure upon return.

2. walking is so natural

   I felt incredibly good walking. Walking felt right. It felt natural. It made me realise how humans are meant to walk and be outside. Our sedentary lifestyle chains us to our chair, and simply waking up, and walking allowed me to once again feel like a human-being as opposed to a human-doing.

movement is medicine

3. on communal living (and sleeping) and feeling alone

   On the camino, there is an option to stay in albergues, which are essentially donation-based rooms, often lined with bunk-beds to pack in as many ‘pilgrims’ as possible. This means a room full of people of all ages, genders and nationalities.

   I met a lady on the camino who explained that on one 35km stretch, the longest she’d ever walked, she told herself she’d treat herself to a private room in a hostel after having slept in Albergues and shared dorms for the past week. “I felt so alone that night” she said, “suddenly I missed all the snoring, and shuffling and people around me”

   My first night in an albergue, I admit was nerve-wracking. However, a couple nights in I understood, as with walking, how natural it felt to live-sleep-eat communally. I felt safe. Imagine that! In a room full of strangers, I felt truly okay, and a certain sense of camaraderie at that. Perhaps our cave-men brains and instincts aren’t so different after all. The art of community is something I think we’re losing in cities, and something I vow to cling onto as and when I can.

4. restoration in humanity (international)

   bombarded by social media, the news, information, it’s easy to feel discontented and pessimistic with where the world is headed. I have to say, the simplicity and kindness I encountered on the camino restored my faith in humanity- even just a little bit. People were kind. generous. When my contact-lens-bloodshot eyes were sore, a Spaniard went to get me his eyedrops. When there was only one bed left in an albergue, three Italians offered to sleep in the same bed to allow for extra space “tre in due!” In an albergue in Güemes, we were offered a free meal cooked by volunteers. Seeing people at different stops, you’d say hi, acknowledge, wave, smile. At our core, and in the right setting, stripped back humans are good. I truly, truly believe that. And the kindest on the camino was infectious in the most wonderful way.

5. letting go (people, places, things)

   There was something bittersweet about meeting people, walking sections with them and then graciously saying goodbye, knowing your paths will most likely never cross again. There was something liberating about not necessarily knowing where you were going to sleep that same night, understanding that the albergues may be full so another option would have to present itself. I found incredible gratitude in the very few items I carried along with me, having left all my things back home. Letting go of people, places, things was part of the beauty of the journey.

So those were my thoughts on the camino. I’m ever grateful for the experience, and will absolutely be back for another, longer stretch.

Lots of love,

Eloïse