
Summer Newsletter 2026
The Italian culture of appartenenza and how it shows up in my life
A licensed Florence guide helping you trade hit-and-run tourism for deep, unhurried Italy
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The Italian culture of appartenenza and how it shows up in my life

Ever since Nolan’s The Odyssey came out, I’ve been fascinated by the raging debates and massive cultural discourse it has spawned.

If I tell someone that my training as a historian of 15th-century Florence shapes how I view art, they will probably say, “Yeah, obviously.” But how does that training show up when I look at modern art, like the current Rothko exhibition in Florence?

Six statues, six stories to know before you see them

Before there was Playboy magazine, there was the Aphrodite of Knidos and the Medici Venus.

Hacks on accommodation, eating out, getting around, taking in the thermal waters, and more

I returned to Ischia this past week after a twenty-five year gap, and this time allowed myself more days to see what is referred to as L’Isola Verde.

The iris is the most Florentine of flowers.

The Vatican Museums and Saint Peter’s are on your list. OK, go. But six million visitors a year means you may emerge, as I did last December, feeling like you've been tossed through a washing machine for over two hours. Yes, it was that crowded in December.

Rome is one of those cities that can overwhelm as much as it enchants, especially when you only have a few days and a long list of things to see.