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Paradise of Exiles ~ Insider Italy

A licensed Florence guide helping you trade hit-and-run tourism for deep, unhurried Italy

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Summer Newsletter 2026

The Italian culture of appartenenza and how it shows up in my life

This Hot Cultural Moment about the Odyssey

Ever since Nolan’s The Odyssey came out, I’ve been fascinated by the raging debates and massive cultural discourse it has spawned.

Modern Art Gets a Shrug, Renaissance Art Delivers

If I tell someone that my training as a historian of 15th-century Florence shapes how I view art, they will probably say, “Yeah, obviously.” But how does that training show up when I look at modern art, like the current Rothko exhibition in Florence?

Venuses Not to Miss in Italy

Six statues, six stories to know before you see them

From Ancient Venuses to Playboy

Before there was Playboy magazine, there was the Aphrodite of Knidos and the Medici Venus.

Ischia on a Budget: Practical Tips

Hacks on accommodation, eating out, getting around, taking in the thermal waters, and more

Agency and the Divine Feminine on Ischia

I returned to Ischia this past week after a twenty-five year gap, and this time allowed myself more days to see what is referred to as L’Isola Verde.

The Flower of Florence

The iris is the most Florentine of flowers.

Rome's Lesser-Known Galleries and Churches could be your Most Rewarding Hours in the City

The Vatican Museums and Saint Peter’s are on your list. OK, go. But six million visitors a year means you may emerge, as I did last December, feeling like you've been tossed through a washing machine for over two hours. Yes, it was that crowded in December.

See Rome Smarter: An Insider's Guide to Three Essential Neighborhoods

Rome is one of those cities that can overwhelm as much as it enchants, especially when you only have a few days and a long list of things to see.