Technically, when I went to Ischia earlier this month, I couldn’t afford it. But I hadn’t been able to go to a southern Italian seaside place since I went to Tropea and Stromboli eight years ago, (that pesky budget again) and with my mother’s death this spring and the sadness that was weighing me down, I decided to go despite my budget.
It was 100% worth it😀
Here are my tips for Ischia on a budget.
Book trains well ahead
Book your train travel to Naples (Napoli Centrale) as far out as possible to get the best fares. Tickets bought a few weeks out or a few days out, will be far more pricey.
Metro instead of taxi from Napoli Centrale to the port
The metro is located right under the train station and goes to the port (Molo Beverello), so there’s no need to pay for a taxi to the port. We have all heard about pickpocketing in Naples' train station and metro, and thus it may sound intimidating to negotiate these Spaces, but on this recent trip I found the vibe to be like any other station and metro in Italy. People were going about their business — a mix of old and young locals and tourists. It did not feel like unsavory characters were lurking in shadows ready to pounce. Like in any station or metro, precautions should be taken and awareness should be maintained, but the three-stop metro journey really is simple. See my footnote for complete details that you can follow. 1
Slow ferry vs. hydrofoil
If your budget is really tight, a slower ferry instead of the hydrofoil costs less, but if you’ve already had a long train ride and want to get there sooner than later, the hydrofoil’s the way to go. The ticket for this, in my experience, can be bought on the spot, but it can feel more convenient to have it already and not need to potentially stand in a line at the ticket booth. I got mine online ahead of time and it was just a matter of showing the QR code on my phone. You will take the ferry to either Ischia Port or Forio, depending where you are staying.
Use the local buses, not taxis
The EAV bus network (orange circular routes) covers the whole island cheaply whereas taxis are expensive. My first destination was Maronti Beach so I went to Ischia Port and then took a bus to Maronti. The bus station is very close to the port. Both the port and the bus station are small and easy to deal with.
And yes, taxi drivers in southern Italy are a breed unto themselves. My hotel guy in Forio insisted on calling one for me and settling a price with the driver, when I ended up needing to splurge to take one. Otherwise, they are “terribile” he said and I had to agree. The day prior I said some sharp words to two of them when I was walking from the San Francesco Beach toward Forio. I came upon two taxis outside a hotel. I wasn’t sure how long the walk to Forio would be and it was very hot. I did not like the price they gave me, but then a few people came out the hotel and I asked them if I could share their taxi and split the cost to Forio, which they were happy to do. The two taxi guys, however, would not let me do it. So I had a few things to say to them about me being a “signora” of a “cert’ età” walking in the heat and thanks a lot for their “accoglienza”. 😆
The walk from San Francesco Beach to Forio along the coast turned out to be doable but only because I had a broad brimmed hat on. It would be perfectly doable in a less hot month.
Get an apartment and cook
Self-catering instead of eating out for every meal is one of the biggest savings—(even though I did not that this time.) Before booking have a look on Google Maps and make sure a “supermercato” or “alimentari” is nearby. You will not want an apartment that is too far of a walk from amenities. Aim for one in towns like Forio, Ischia Porto, Casamicciola Terme, and Lacco Ameno. (Since we are talking about budget travel, I am catering these tips to people without cars.)
The eating out hack
Many restaurants price lunch lower than dinner for similar food, so a sit-down meal at midday stretches the budget further. I stayed in a budget friendly “casa” on Maronti beach (no point in doing an apartment in Maronti as the only grocery store is way above the beach up a mountainous road) and what I did was eat lunch out and then I didn’t eat dinner. I found that a seafood spaghetti at a later hour like 2:00 or 3:00 was filling enough. Then I had fruit on the deck of my room in the evening. Also, bruschetta on Ischia is a whole other beast. In Florence bruschetta is on a round toasted piece of bread the size of my palm. On Ischia bruschetta is enormous and can fill you up easily for 10 euro, without needing to order anything else. And ordering only this at lunchtime is perfectly fine.
And don’t forget to have granita! Nothing is more quintessential to a southern Italy beach getaway than a cooling granita on a hot afternoon.
Free beaches vs. paid lidos
Every beach has a free public section (spiaggia libera) alongside paid umbrella/lounge areas. Often, hotels and apartments will give you an umbrella to use on a free beach. I did not have a beach towel with me but I used a sarong. This is a significant savings since a lounge and umbrella can run about €30 a day.
Hotel thermal pools as an alternative
If you go with a hotel instead of an apartment, many have their own thermal pools included, saving the cost of a day pass somewhere like Negombo—though Negombo is worth it if the budget allows.
Free thermal spots vs. paid thermal parks
A full day at Negombo runs roughly €50 in shoulder season and can climb toward €70+ in peak summer. Sorgeto Bay, in the municipality of Forio, is the most well-known free option. On a path from Maronti beach there's also Terme di Cavascura (Antiche Terme Romane), an atmospheric ancient bath site that goes all the way back to the Greek colonization of the island! Basic access to the thermal shower, rock-carved tubs, and Turkish sauna is about €20, a fraction of the big park prices, with a lot more history.
How cool to take the thermal waters at the same place Cicero did! 😮 He wrote about his visit here: “Beneath the sand and at the bottom of the sea burns the heart of a volcano, and in the valley of Cavascura flows boiling water.”
Travel before/after summer (shoulder season)
Prices for ferries, accommodation, and activities drop outside the June-September peak, and the island is far less crowded. Since I went in June, I did not take this advice, but June is still better than July and August when I would not recommend going due to heat, crowds, and high prices.
In Napoli Centrale station, look for the escalator down that says metro and Linea 1. You want to follow signs to Linea 1, and Garibaldi. You will come to a shopping gallery that has natural light coming in and you walk straight through this space and then you will see machines for metro tickets (which work with credit card or cash) and then you want Linea 1, direction Piscinola. You will descend an escalator and follow signs for direction Piscinola. Once on the metro it is only 3 stops to the port stop which is called Municipio. Follow the exit that is indicated for the port. Once above ground turn to the right. (Straight in front you may see huge cruise ships. That is NOT where you want to go). Turn right, cross a road and walk through an area that has some small eateries with tables outside. Keep going and enter the low building with glass walls. Inside here is where you line up to get your ferry.
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