Carbonara Is A Snitch

Carbonara is happening fast. Blink and you’ve fucked it.

I came back to work after a month off and carbonara was the first special I ran. Maybe the worst dish to come back to if you’re slightly out of rhythm, because it will expose you immediately. It’s so simple yet so easy to sabotage.

Coming back from slower days changes the way your body moves in the kitchen. You hesitate for a second. Carbonara doesn't give you that second.

I make fresh pasta for a living, but this is one of those dishes where dry pasta just makes more sense. You need that al dente bite. So get some dry spaghetti, or rigatoni, guanciale, egg yolks, pecorino and black pepper. No cream. No shortcuts.

The biggest mistake people make isn’t ingredients. It’s HEAT.

Patience is the secret ingredient. If your pan is too hot, you’ve got scrambled eggs. The pan shouldn’t feel aggressive. It should feel warm, not ripping.

Carbonara needs to be set up before you even start. Your guanciale is rendered. Your water is boiling. Once the pasta drops, you’re on the clock.

You don’t multitask.
You don’t walk away.
For 30 seconds this pasta wants everything from you.

Too much heat, too much speed, and it breaks.
Turn the flame off.
Let the sauce come together on its own.
And once the pasta is ready, you've got maybe 90 seconds while it's perfect.

You can follow my recipe. Timing is the part you can’t Google.

Ok, later
Em

BEHIND THE PASTA

• Laurent Dagenais’ carbonara video

• Tastet’s guide to carbonara in Montreal