SPETSES : ISLAND GUIDE 2026

I have been going to Spetses since my early teens. The place has a magic that seems to pull me back every year. I feel it in my whole body as soon as I step onto the island. A literal release in my shoulders and an ease that flushes my limbs with a cool calm like the thrill of cold water when you jump into the ocean.

In many ways Spetses has felt like home. A constant amidst the washing machine spin of life changes. Adolescence, adulthood, love, grief, job wins, job losses and perhaps the biggest change I’ve experience so far - motherhood.

I remember lying on the beach pregnant expressing concern to my husband about how things would change. Historically I don’t love change. I cling to rhythm and routine, guiding myself with a somewhat irrational set of rules to keep my brain from going too far, too low, too rattled and removed. I like repetition and I like structure - it keeps me safe. I like to know what’s coming and to always be prepared. But no matter how many books you read or podcasts you listen to, nothing can really prepare you for a baby.

My husband turned to me and said with an effortlessly assured ease that ‘it would be exactly the same, there would just be a baby right here’ pointing to the gap between us. He was of course completely wrong. It was not the same but it was still magic. It was simply a new kind of magic.

Spetses is a small island just 54 nautical miles from Athens. Blanketed in pine trees, it was known during ancient times as Pityoussa (meaning pine-clad) and during its time under Venetian rule, as Isola di Spezie owing to its prominent position on the major spice trading routes. Private owned cars are not allowed on the island which has always been one of my favourite things about it. I should say that there are more cars on the island than there were when I first visited. But there are restrictions on when they can be used and for the most part it feels car free. Wherever you are staying you will always be able to walk to the beach and are never more than ten minutes from a taverna. The main port, Dapia is the heart of the island and is where most hotels and restaurants are situated. Further up into the hills and around the coast you will find some larger houses but for the most part everything happens between Dapia and the Old port. The island is only 27km and has one glorious road that stretches all around looping past acres of olive and pine trees with the sea to your side. It will take you about 25 mins to loop round by moped, 35-40 mins by quad and anywhere between 1-3 hours by bicycle depending on whether you take an E-bike or prefer the full sweat of a conventional geared bicycle (more on this later).

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