Reviews From Berlin Fashion Week, and Elle Magazine Africa Launches

Highlights From Berlin Fashion Week

Orange Culture Autumn/Winter 2026

Adebayo Oke-Lawal has come a long way since launching Orange Culture circa 2011. Back then, he called himself the boy with a colourful disposition, and I remember interviewing him about his debut collection “Summer Quirk”. This is one brand whose evolution I’ve watched throughout the years alongside my own career. Adebayo and I started our respective work around the same time. He was a budding designer from Nigeria and I was a fashion journalist from Johannesburg.

Looking at this collection was a stark reminder of those early days of the brand. Using colours and unexpected textiles has always been a core ethos for Adebayo. And though his brand has grown so much since then, these elements continue to guide his aesthetic. For autumn/winter 2026, he leans on vibrant tones, artisanal details, and fluid silhouettes merging Western tailoring with Nigerian craftsmanship. Titled “Backyards Of Memory”, it’s a tribute and reflection. “After losing my mother, I found myself holding tightly to the memories that felt safest, warmest, and most alive. Many of them live in the backyard of my childhood,” the designer explains in his press notes, referring to his inspiration this season.

The collection is a tender offering filled with breezy silhouettes and light fabrications where colours are influenced by sunlight and time, each look representing a distant yet vivid memory.

Kenneth Ize Autumn/Winter 2026

Following his split from a financier several years ago, Kenneth Ize’s designs haven’t been the same ever since. I find the brilliance and allure that once defined his collections missing. In “Joy”, the designer’s new collection for autumn/winter 2026, it feels like the brand is going through an identity crisis and attempting to establish a new direction, a new voice, a new aesthetic. The result, similar to his preceding collections was mostly underwhelming.

The showcase included elements of deliberate clownish styling and makeup. The good stuff came through in a couple of tailored suits in reformed, quirky silhouettes and a womenswear ensemble featuring tailored trousers with fringe detail styled with a half-unbuttoned shirt and an elongated hat.

Losing your only investor can obviously impact the dynamics of a business. But however challenging it may be, I do believe that Kenneth Ize, the brand has a chance to return to its former glory. He’s way too talented, and at his best, his garments are too good for him not to!

Buzigahill Autumn/Winter 2026

Buzigahill, the Kamapala-based brand by Bobby Kolade, offers a compelling collection of embroidered and handwoven garments that took hours to produce by local artisans. Case in point: an old leather jacket was reworked into something new and fresh through a process of sandpapering, painting, and varnishing (see the transformation here).

And elsewhere, the designer knotted multiple t-shirts to create a textured top that gives the illusion of beading. These garments are aesthetically pleasing, intentional and layered with acvitism. Adding this level of craftsmanship to recycled items makes the whole experience even more special. Bobby’s mission to redesign second-hand clothing that’s dumped in Africa from Europe, the USA, and Asia and returning it overseas as “designer garments” is a reflection of the brands bold attitude.

Elle Côte d’Ivoire Becomes Elle Afrique Francophone (Elle Africa)

This weekend, Elle Côte d’Ivoire re-launched as Elle Afrique, a Pan-African magazine for African women. It’s one of two Elle editions in Africa since the South African edition shut down some years ago. Naomi Campbell is the cover star, styled by Law Roach and shot by South African photographer Trevor Stuurman. As reported in my previous edition, African media is experiencing a major revival, and Elle Afrique couldn’t have come at a better time.

Led by Frédérique Nanan, the magazine covers Francophone Africa, including Senegal, Gabon, Benin, and Cameroon. And will also launch an English version for the rest of Africa by the end of 2026 to reach key markets including South Africa, Kenya, Nigeria, and Ghana. Sounds like exciting times ahead!

That’s all for now. Thanks for reading this edition of Africa Fashion Decoded.