The Brambles of August

There is a wildness to blackberries in August.

They grow where they please, along fences, at the edges of paths, and in tangled brambles. Determined, it seems, to keep some of their fruit for themselves.

And the best blackberries are always those just out of reach.

You lean a little farther, and a pesky thorn catches your sleeve, if you're fortunate to have worn sleeves for blackberry picking. My grandmother always warned to wear long sleeves. The first time I went, I, of course, did not heed that warning. With scratches to prove it.

Here in the Northwest, blackberry brambles are nearly impossible to overlook in late summer. They spill over fences, line familiar roads, and fill in empty spaces along a path’s edge. Their dark fruit ripens beneath leaves that have grown dusty in the August sun.

They are abundant and unruly, and generous too. But only if you’re willing to meet them where they grow.

August often feels much the same.

The season is still offering peaches, plums, berries, and long golden evenings, but there is a subtle change in the light. Summer has not ended, yet more and more, we become aware that it will.

Perhaps that’s why the blackberries taste especially sweet right now.

These blackberry almond shortbread bars began with the idea of saving a few of these late-season berries for a sweet treat. I wanted a recipe that let their deep, slightly tart flavor shine, with a buttery, delicate shortbread to make them special.

The result is a jewel-dark blackberry filling tucked between a tender, almond shortbread crust.

In other words, these bars are what happened when the blackberries made it home.

Unlike traditional jam bars, these shortbread bars are made with fresh blackberries, brightened with lemon juice and zest. Some of the berries soften into the sauce with a jammy texture, while others remain intact. The fruit flavors are concentrated and the berries are juicy.

The base and topping are made from the same almond shortbread dough. A brief par-bake gives the bottom crust a head start before the blackberry filling is added so that it remains sturdy beneath the filling.

Ground almonds bring a tenderness to the shortbread, while almond extract gently deepens the flavor without competing with the berries.

A scattering of sliced almonds adds a final bit of texture and makes these simple bars feel especially lovely with coffee or afternoon tea.

Let’s get to the recipe.