A big wave

Surfing has been a teacher of mine these last 8 months during this Costa Rican chapter of life.

Yes there the days of sun and smooth breaks where the water massages me

But also there’s those days where the currents rush stronger than a human body is meant to withstand

Where the crashing brings genuine concern for my skeletal symmetry

I had a wave like this 2 weeks ago

A big crash

A snapped leash

and then a marathon of a journey to get back from 200m out to the shore

One paddle at a time

Thinking I’m escaping the bags of concrete dropping on me

Only to be pulled back into her foamy mouth

Ordering myself out-loud to “remain calm”

I make it back onto the beach

Out of breath

Shell(s) shocked

After 10 days of not feeling my best

I find myself in a Yin Yoga class with Gitta, a Venezuelan yogi

30 minutes in, as her singing bowls resonate and whisper to keep present

I’m back in the break

The foam

The water lacking buoyancy

Up

Down

Gasping

And then i’m back on the yoga mat

Exhale

My body sighs

The final wave goes out

and I rest

It’s over

I consider this a near-death experince because 1) I was concerned for my life 2) It continued to affect me for a couple of weeks 2) It’s shaped my perspective on life

For these moments of reflection bring the importance of family, of friends, forgiveness and enjoyment of the journey. To be truthful to oneself - to be kind to the world - to follow the creative threads with a keen eye.

I’ve been out surfing since and i’ll be out again - because this wasn’t a bad experience, it taught me more about the fragility of life, which is the best gift I could ask for, for it brings me closer to LIVING.

Peace

Lex