We go to the Var coast every year for our son’s birthday. We found it by accident, a hotel we tried one spring, loved it, went back that summer, and now we can’t not go.
We used to drive, back when we lived near Geneva and it was only a few hours away. Now we’re in London so this year we flew, and there’s this new British Airways summer flight from London City straight into Toulon-Hyères that basically drops you on the beach. We landed and were eating lobster pasta with our feet in the sand by early afternoon. No flying into Nice, no two-hours in the car after.
I want to tell you about all of it. Where we ate, where we stayed, the little spots where the food is unreal and nobody’s making a thing of it.
But here’s the part I’m most excited about. I know most of you aren’t getting to France this summer. I have a friend in California who tells me every year she wishes she could come, and that’s who I’m writing half of this for. So we’re cooking it at home too, simple fresh things straight off the trip or just inspired by it, made in the wood oven out in our little London garden with our son eating whatever we make. Nothing fussy, the kind of thing you can actually pull together on a weeknight. The pasta, the fish, that long lazy lunch feeling, at your own table. You don’t need the flight to have the summer.
I’m putting the details down, the addresses, the exact tables, the recipes, the things that never fit in a caption, that all comes in these letters. Starting with all the places we’d go back for, and plenty more through the summer. Subscribe so you don’t miss them.
See you on the coast, wherever you’re reading this from x

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