When I departed Jalal-Abad, I was prepared for a tough day of continuous climbing. I anticipated a 80-kilometer ride before reaching the only hostel in this mountainous region. Although I tried to deny the fact, I reluctantly acknowledged that it would be 80 kilometers of pure ascent, almost reaching the top of a mountain pass that would take me to Kazarman the next day. But what I couldn’t anticipate, was the headwind I had to face, and the chill I had to brave. By the time I arrived at the last village before a sharp left turn into the high mountains, I was exhausted.
After a short break with chocolate candies imported from my home country, widely available in Uzbekistan, I started counting down the kilometers to the hostel I had in mind. The ascent grew steeper, the landscape more desolate and at various points, I noticed a legacy of landslides that had changed the route over time. Then, as I passed a shepherd with his sheep, he suddenly crossed his arms, signaling that the road ahead was blocked. I didn’t immediately respond and remained in the bubble of my fatigue. Then, a car pulled over, and two gentlemen stepped out and made the same gesture. It finally dawned on me, the mountain pass I was aiming for was closed.
It took me a few minutes to digest this news. I could have continued another 5 more kilometers up a 10% steep inclination. But I soon realized I would be forced to do the reverse the next day, So I might as well do it immediately: return to Jalal-Abad and try to find an alternative route around this mountain. Although evening was approaching, I decided to go back for the full 75 kilometers and stay another night in the hotel where I had stayed before. It was downhill now, with a tailwind. Two hours later, I checked in and enjoyed the hospitality of the staff, who later rescued me after I lost my telephone. Let me tell you that story another time.
This post contains a preview of a forthcoming book about Journey to the East, highlighting the perpetuating tensions and sometimes awkward dialogues between East and West as found on my quest for a New Silk on an Old Road.
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