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Saturday Feeling · Jul 11, 2026

Why jackfruit from this Tamil Nadu town is on fine-dining menus

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Shalini Umachandran · Saturday Feeling

Since I first encountered the jackfruit at age 3 in my grandmother’s garden in Chennai, I’ve been intrigued by the ungainly monsters. Until then, in the UK, trees I’d come across tended to be well-behaved and strait-laced with a predictable canopy on top, but here were trees with massive fruit sprouting untidily from everywhere, all the way to the base of the trunk, spiky fruit that seemed to poke me back when I curiously jabbed them. My mother would tell a story (in hindsight, much embellished) about the time she and her grandparents were stranded—and overcome by the fruit’s creeping, overpowering smell—in Panruti in Tamil Nadu when their car hit a stray jackfruit on the road and got a flat. This fruit, delicious to boot, just seemed like a superstar, even though no one at home shared my excitement because cutting it open and prepping it was a trial.

Jackfruit sellers in Panruti, Tamil Nadu.

Over time, the trees in that garden were cut down and I forgot about it all—until I began reading news reports of deaths caused by ripe jackfruit falling on people’s heads. Tragic as this was for the victims, it seemed like more superhero behaviour. Then a few years ago, versions of jackfruit began appearing on menus as chefs sought local, seasonal, unusual ingredients to stand out from the rest. Here it was, a superstar again, worthy of a story.

So, for Lounge, Sowmiya Ashok patiently drew together the threads of the jackfruit’s journey from orchards in Panruti—one of the few towns where it is grown all year and which has GI tagged its jackfruit—to the plates of fine-dining restaurants. The jackfruit is extremely versatile, its taste and texture changing throughout its life, making it the kind of ingredient chefs love to experiment with. I’ve been waiting to publish this story and I’m hoping you’ll enjoy it as much, and maybe order jackfruit tacos or stop by a street vendor for a few slices of sweetness.

(Getty Images)

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Shalini Umachandran is Editor, Mint Lounge.

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