Corn Is Here. Don’t Overthink It.

Frank has appeared in these pages before, so I won’t tell his story again. But credit for this recipe belongs to him; he taught me to make it years ago, and I’ve been making it ever since.

At this point in August, unhusked ears of corn seem to be a permanent fixture in my kitchen. And every time I see them piled on the counter, I remember this recipe.

Corn, leeks, ume plum vinegar. That’s really it.

It’s fast, it’s delicious, and if you have good corn, it’s one of those recipes that reminds you how very little you need to do to good ingredients.

So, while the corn is here, I’m bringing this one back.

Serves 4

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 bunch leeks

• 3 ears fresh corn

• 2 tablespoons umeboshi vinegar

1. Trim the dark green tops from the leeks just above where the white meets the green. Cut the leeks in half lengthwise, then slice crosswise into ½-inch pieces. Wash thoroughly in cold water to remove any grit and drain very well. The leeks need to be dry when they hit the pan.

2. Cut the corn kernels from the cobs.

3. Heat a cast-iron pan over medium-high heat. When the pan is hot, add the olive oil and immediately add the leeks. Cook, stirring continuously, for about 3 minutes. You want them soft, but not browned.

4. Add the corn and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes. Splash in the umeboshi vinegar, give everything a quick stir, and remove from the heat.

Umeboshi vinegar is salty, tart, and a little fruity, and there really isn’t another vinegar that tastes quite like it. I’ve kept a bottle in my kitchen for decades. Here’s the one I use.

A few grinds of black pepper are good here, too.

These days, I eat corn off the cob more often than on it. Once you cut those kernels free, you can do almost anything with them. A few things I love:

• Toss them into potato salad with roasted poblano chiles and sriracha mayo.

• Quickly pan-sear the kernels in olive oil with curry powder and salt, then fold them into orzo.

• Toss them with blistered tomatoes, soft goat cheese, and grilled shrimp.

• Make a sharp, vinegary raw corn salad with minced raw red pepper and lots of chopped parsley or basil—or both.

And, of course, make Frank’s corn and leeks.

From My Table to Yours,
Mary