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iHOLA! by lydialauer · Jun 9, 2026

Barefoot in the San Giovanni subway station

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lydialauer · iHOLA! by lydialauer

This send has been written in stolen moments. In my notes app on the metro while my kids are entertained by strangers or hypnotized by the hum and soothing momentum of the Parisian subway system. In dictated emails (to myself) dispatched from playgrounds, piazzas and cobblestone streets. In the quiet that appears when Mike sits with a coffee and the kids and I trail off for a few minutes to myself.

clockwise top right: Trevi fountain, Felix the Gladiator, the boys heading to the wedding, Parisian market pit stop & a rainy evening at the Eiffel Tower.

I am in a small Parisian apartment with Mike and the boys. I have about 20 minutes until I have to hop on an 8PM call, 11AM in LA. An intro call with a potential client. I have a slight giddy and nervous energy. I am making my kids the French equivalent of cup o noodles so they are fed ahead of both Mike and I hopping on zooms. Before you judge my culinary choices in, France of all places, my kids saw the ramen cups at the Monoprix and asked for them. We are traveling for a handful of weeks and a 1 euro meal is more than welcome while I dine on baguette, french butter and salami.

Five minutes before the call the boys have finished eating and cleared their plates. I am picking up loose noodles from the dining table. The same table I will soon be sitting at to try and be professional and impress this new client, try to win their business. Mike’s meeting begins in the tiny apartment’s kitchen with the door closed. The boys are watching Jurassic Park in the bedroom.

I check my appearance in the mirror. I move the vase of fresh peonies off the dining table and set them on the credenza behind me so they appear just so in the video frame. I get ready to open up zoom. I do the all too familiar dance of checking my calendar. Looking for the meeting link. It is not there. I go to my email to look and see if it was in the email copy. And then like a little ‘boop’ in You’ve Got Mail I see an email from 7:51PM. Nine minutes ago when I was cleaning ramen from the table. My meeting partner emails me to cancel the meeting. The reason, her own child related issue. So instead I sit down to write. The kids are already parked in front of a screen and its the first time this tiny apartment has been quiet since we arrived yesterday. Did I mention we are in Paris?

Before I begin to share the moments, the details, the memories, I must remind everyone of the one piece of wisdom my friend Kelly Lim, a seasoned mom of three, told me years ago and has stuck with me ever since. She said plainly that vacation with children is not vacation. It’s just relocation. And that has really informed my philosophy on traveling with kids especially at these ages. I look forward to travel in 2030 in four years when Felix is nine and Mario 15 when their legs are longer and stronger and their capacity and patience more in alignment with Mike and mine.

These past three weeks have been exactly what I expected because my expectations have been low. I have had unflattering moments of zero patience, fully informed by Felix's meltdowns and the ambient soundtrack of brothers bickering. But it’s also been as I expected because we really have not planned much. That’s kind of my philosophy across many aspects of our lives. But travel, especially. No hard and fast itineraries to follow just places and spaces to allow some forms and semblance of familiarity and routine. So playgrounds, coffee, shops and monuments become familiar fixtures on our outings day to day.

So why are we here? In March we booked tickets to Spain for my cousin’s wedding— some fotos below. “We can wing it!” we said, booking just one way. This was a romantic idea. Very ‘type b’ of Mike and I if you will. Sitges was a wonderful way to kick start and energize our trip. The wedding was beautiful, thoughtful and intimate. Held in a small coastal town where my aunt and uncle have had a house for over 25 years. I visited as a teen and in my 20’s but had not been back in many many years. Over our six days in Spain we had multi generational gatherings and meals every day and gelato at night with the gaggle of next gen primos. It was magical to reunite with our family there.

Since we had a reason to head to Europe and because the wedding was mid May we decided to take advantage of getting over to Europe and were able to pull Mario (grade 5 at his international school) and Felix (jardin in his waldorf school) out of school nearly two months early to make this trip more than just a quick jaunt but to introduce our kids to Europe.

Mario was sent with coursework to complete and so far he has been engaged and happy to accomplish assignments each morning before we take off for the day exploring. Speaking of exploring we have been doing the proven mix of breakfast at home, then setting out to a cultural/historical/tourist attraction have a light lunch and coffee and then off to a playground or skatepark. This recipe has worked for us on recent trips to LA or Mexico City and ensures we are not doing too much or asking too much of the kids.

So what does that look like in Europe? It is waking up at 10AM and then not leaving the house until 2pm. So that the kids will have eaten, Mike or I can workout or have a moment to work in quiet while the kids do their school activities and draw or occasionally watch an episode of Pokemon. This is the ease that comes with just being and not really having a plan or an itinerary. Then once we leave the house we roam. To one of those cultural landmarks, historical sites or attractions. Followed by a meal grabbed from a market or bakery. On the go, nothing fancy. But as mom and dad we will sit for a coffee in the afternoon at a real cafe with cute chairs, cute tables and usually some conversation with other travelers or locals who don’t mind speaking to us in English or Spanish. Then on to a playground, big open field or skate park to wind down for the day. If we are lucky we will go out to eat but most days we are eating in our apartment. Cooking veggies and pasta or simple salads with baguette and french butter. But then out of the apartment again to walk in the streets until 10 or 11pm. Back to the apartment after a gelato or sweet treat and then winding down for the kids while Mike and I return to our computers. Responding to emails and working on projects in these stolen moments between vacation.

In Paris it rained our first four days and we packed from near 90 degree temps in Mexico so we were walking around in all our layers which left me especially feeling very frumpy. On Sunday our second full day in the fashion capital we happened upon a weekend market full of vintage and thrifting (my fave!) and both Mike and I scored trench coats and we finally felt warm and me slightly more stylish! The poor boys kept with their layered hoodies and didn’t seem to mind.

We visited the Louvre mid week and in a wing full of Roman sculptures we found a man sketching, Mario was intrigued and sat with him for about 25 minutes learning and sketching alongside him. They spoke in Spanish the whole time. The man was born in Buenos Aires but raised in Paris. And Felix has had many Felix moments, asking to be carried after walking miles, making demands for toys at the super market but he has also had sweet moments sitting content for a full dinner just drawing Pokemon characters in a sketch book I brought him or when we walked by a gorgeous square with fountains and lawns he asked if we could do a picnic there. We ended up going two nights in a row with a mish mash of food from the Monoprix.

In Rome we stayed in a townhouse style apartment with traditional old world details. We arrived after midnight at our airbnb. The host met us at the door, she sweetly took me through the ins and outs of the apartment, how to turn on the water heater, the kitchen stove and operate the AC. This was her late grandmother’s apartment and it was a beautiful mix of MCM Italian decor, art and books. A red brass four post bed and all the charm and details you would expect in a chic Nonna’s apartment. The bathroom was a monotone green color story deserving of its own instagram grid post, to come. By the end of the tour she had Felix in her arms giving him a cuddle ready to present the kids the chocolate chip cookies and milk she had bought for our arrival. Looking back on that evening and late arrival I think that was our dinner.

On our first day in Rome we walked through the Colosseum and the Forum, crossed a picturesque bridge over the River Tiber and landed in Trastevere — tiny winding streets, beautiful foliage climbing the walls, our first gelato of the day with the promise of more later. We kept walking until we landed in a piazza anchored by a playground and a large movie screen set up for cinema in the square that evening. We stayed.

That piazza became our anchor for three days. A place to return to for familiarity. For the kids to rediscover the communal scooter left on the playground. For them to run wild while Mike and I sat, relaxed, and to enjoy briefly not being needed by the children.

One way tickets, no itinerary was the plan. Low expectations was the mindset.

What I didn’t plan for was how much of my actual life would come along with us: the work calls, the ramen, the stolen time to write this- vacation truly was relocation.

Also not part of the plan or possible to put in any itinerary: the man from Buenos Aires who gave Mario sketching lessons on the spot in the Louvre. Felix asking for a picnic and meaning it. Milk and cookies at midnight in a Roman Nonna’s apartment.

We just let it unfold and be what it was. Which was, memorable. Each day when things got hard or someone was whining I would stop and remind myself that we were only going to be on this exact trip once in our lifetime. That traveling is a huge honor and privilege. That we were never again going to be with our kids on their first trip to Europe and that was reminder enough to indulge in the gelato in the afternoon, order the wine with dinner, slow down, push through and soak it all up.

xx LL

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