Dear Pizza Tourists,
If you are a gardener, you’ve probably seen the bright yellow flowers that bloom in a bush of summer squash. But have you ever cooked with them?
They are popular in Italian, Mexican, and Greek cooking but sometimes overlooked in other cultures. Which…is strange to me because summer squash is such an abundant crop?
In today’s recipe, the squash blossom becomes your delicate paintbrush. They are stuffed with ricotta (maybe an anchovy) then bathed in a light batter before being gently dropped in bubbling hot oil and sizzled into golden crisp perfection.
There are male and female squash blossoms. The male flower sits on one long stem. The female, has a baby zucchini attached. For this recipe, we are using the male flower so you can use the stem like a paint brush. And worry not, if you can only find the females, just carefully remove the baby zucchini (set aside for another use).
The art of frying!
The first time I had stuffed squash blossoms, Fiori di Zucca Fritti, was at Felix Trattoria in Los Angeles. They arrived HOT with a perfectly crisp outside, and a warm, soft, gooey center. I was amazed at how something so delicate could be transformed into this fried art form, while simultaneously feeling so light on the palate.
Years later, I asked Chef Evan Funke for tips on stuffing the blossoms. He kindly invited me into the kitchen at Felix. If you’ve seen any of the documentaries, his knowledge of Italian food feels endless, and he speaks with such determined depth and precision. That day, he let me watch the process and shared a few tricks.
For his Fiori Di Zucca, Chef Evan was inspired by the light, crispy flakiness of Chef Nobu Matsuhisa tempura. His version uses a mix of rice flour and all-purpose flour, with a splash of vodka in the batter. The vodka burns off more quickly during frying. A little trick with some interesting science behind it.
Frying is an art. The right oil, the right temperature, and some basic safety precautions are all key to your success of the final product.
You need a frying vessel. I like using the Fry Daddy which looks like a dingy bucket, but heats up fast and packs light. You can also use a heavy pot or a cast-iron skillet. Just be sure you can fill it with at least two inches of oil.
If you have outdoor space, I recommend frying outside to avoid coating your kitchen with the smell of grease.
Set up your station with all the tools you need.
I use tempura batter for my flour mix. It’s just easier that way trust me.
And that shirt you love? Put an apron on so you don’t get oil stains. Only speaking from my oil stained wardrobe.
This is a fun recipe to repeat and become better at time and time again. So don’t be discouraged if your first round isn’t perfect. I promise it’s worth it, and your efforts will soon be requested at every party.
Deep fryer, Fry Daddy, (or heavy pot)
Thermapen or thermometer
2 x sheet trays (or plates)
Cooling rack (or one thats fit inside a sheet tray)
Spider or Perforated spoon (a utensil with a long handle and a wire-mesh basket)
Tongs
Bowl (for batter)
Scissors or chef tweezers (fish tweezers = extra credit)
Pastry bag (or strong ziplock) Note: a spoon will work if you are anti-plastic
High-heat oil: peanut (watch for allergies), grapeseed, or Extra Virgin Olive oil

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