From the Archives: A Week in Provence

As we pack our bags for another week in Provence to commence this weekend, sharing this post from last year for all of my new subscribers! Can’t wait for more French markets, fresh fruit, and hunting for treasures this year. All documented on Substack, of course.

Peter Mayle’s book, A Year in Provence, takes place around Menerbes, a hilltop village in the Luberon Valley of southern France. While we weren’t lucky enough to spend a whole year here, our week’s stay exploring the local markets, lavender fields, and cherry orchards has been pretty magical. Our days were filled with bright sunshine, afternoon naps after a hearty lunch of roast chicken, local cherries, and homemade goats cheese procured at the market, and leisurely sunset dinners in town. There is a certain rhythm to life in Provence that lulls you into a complete sense of serenity - but maybe it’s also the lavender in the air.

Peter Mayle wrote, “One of my earliest memories of Provence was driving back to Ménerbes from Cavaillon with a tray of ripe melons. Their scent filled the car, even with the windows open—sweet, heady, and irresistible. The man who wrote that melons 'charm the throat and cool the belly' forgot to add that they also seduce the nose.” Exploring village markets and hunting for treasures and lunch provisions is my favorite part of a visit to Provence. I loved picking out what we were going to eat based on what the local farmers were selling that day. Ripe peaches, sweet melons, jewel toned apricots, and fat cherries dominated the fruit selection this week while mountains of green beans and aubergines rounded out the vegetables. Every town hosts a market on one day of the week and local vendors will tell you in no uncertain terms what you should eat that day based on their expertise. As my husband found when buying fresh champignon mushrooms, they will also tell you how much to buy per person and the best way to prepare them. The Menerbes market takes place on Thursdays and it was definitely one of my favorites - not too big or crowded. There was a chicken man, selling two kinds of roast chicken and potatoes. There was a cheese stand, a vegetable/fruit stand, an espadrille stand, and several local craftsmen proudly selling their wares, such as lavender and olive soap, sachets of dried lavender, and utensils made out of local olive wood.

I met a lady at the market who owns a shop in Apt specializing in Italian linen dresses and button down shirts. How could I resist picking out a few pieces to add to my summer linen wardrobe? I got a white linen shift dress and a cobalt blue short sleeve dress with pockets (so convenient). I can never resist a good linen outfit, especially with the heat of summer in Provence. It’s the ultimate summer uniform that’s easy to throw on and accessorize with fun beads or a charm necklace. Add a straw basket and some espadrilles and you can channel Provençal fashion wherever you are!

In addition to Menerbes, there are many hilltop towns picturesque and sprinkled along the mountains in the Luberon. One of our favorites is Gordes. As you drive up to the town via a winding mountain road surrounded by limestone and cypress trees you emerge to a cliffside view truly unlike anything I’ve ever seen - an entire town carved from rock and spilling down the side of the mountain. We were lucky to catch it at sunset with the town juxtaposed against the pink sky. There are cat photographs hung on buildings all around town (a local artist’s exhibit), which we appreciated as fellow cat lovers. There is also a great ice cream place in town that serves a lavender and honey flavor, where we were greeted by a friendly mutt with an ice cream cone charm on his collar. For a delicious lunch, I highly recommend Le Jardin restraurant with a large back patio serving the most delicious melon, goats cheese, and prosciutto salad accompanied by a carafe of crisp white wine. The Gordes market takes place on Tuesday mornings and it’s quite popular and big, so get there there early.

After a stop in Gordes, drive out of town and follow the signs for the Abbey of Sénanque, which is a worthwhile stop for its lavender products alone. Founded in 1148 by Cistercian monks, the Abbey of Sénanque was built of local stone among the green hills and purple lavender fields. The Cistercian monks who still live there follow the strict rules of their order and devote their lives to prayer and study. They also grow medicinal plants and aromatic herbs along with lavender, all of which are incorporated in the products that they sell in the abbey shop. I picked up a bottle of lavender pillow mist (€10) to dream of Provence when I’m back at home.

Peter Mayle’s A Year on Provence is hands down the best read about moving to Provence and trying to make it as a foreigner in rural France. I highly recommend the audio book, which is read by Mayle himself. Another local resident, Ridley Scott, directed the movie A Good Year, which was shot in locations Scott described as "eight minutes from my house." It was primarily filmed in the villages of Bonnieux, Cucuron and Gordes in the Luberon valley, so you get some good shots of the local scenery. Ridley Scott and his family were frequent visitors to the Luberon for several years before buying the Mas Des Infermières, a 11 hectare vineyard that is now open for visits and wine tastings.

Where We Stayed: We were happy to return to Bastide les Amis this summer - what a great place in a perfect location! The property is made up of two adjoining houses, which are connected through the patio outside. The larger of the houses has three bedrooms, while the smaller one has two. It is perfect for two families — or a family and grandparents — so everyone has some privacy but also plenty of common areas in the garden, by the pool, and inside the houses to enjoy. The house is located within a 2 minute walk from the village center of Menerbes, so going out to eat in the evenings and going to the Thursday market is very easy and does not require a car. Other local villages, such as Gordes, Lacoste, Bonnieux, and Roussillon are within a short drive. Both houses have high end six burner stoves, every type of pot and pan, and are exquisitely equipped with every chef’s tool you need to prepare the provisions you bought that morning at the market.

The Best Olive Oil: We stumbled upon Domaine du Moulin Saint Augustin one day on our drive back to Menerbes one morning and decided to stop in for some local olive oil and vinegar. What we discovered was so much more! This may be my favorite place to pick up regional food products as well as olive soap for gifts. We enjoyed a personalized olive oil tasting and they do offer guided tours and tastings if you book in advance. It is definitely on my to do list for next time!

Thank you for reading and see you here next week!