Even Vegans Need A Fish Spatula

Hello! I cannot believe it is already July. Lots of updates from me soon, but just some quick LA dining notes for today. Last night I checked back in on Etra, one of my most frequented restaurants in Los Angeles. It’s always solid (and has my favorite pomodoro in the city) with the best, cozy vibe, and one of LA’s best sticky toffee puddings.

I also recently went to the new (larger) location of Pizzeria Sei and had nothing short of a stellar meal. The restaurant added a corn fritter to the menu that day but what arrived at the table was essentially a savory cream puff, coated in crunchy cornflakes and stuffed a very corn-forward ricotta. An absolute delight. I gently bullied several tables around me into ordering them. The pizzas were of course, also a true delight. Chef William Joo is doing three different styles on the menu at the moment, including a very fun málà fried pizza. The one I cannot stop thinking about though is the patate, made with what felt like thick potato chips, creme fraiche, and lots of chives on his beloved Tokyo Neopolitan-style crust. If you’re in LA, it’s worth trying to get a res or walking in as soon as the restaurant opens.

The fish spatula is one of the worst named tools in culinary history — but it also happens to be one of my all-time favorite kitchen tools. The flat, angular spatula is truly one of the most versatile and useful things I have ever come across. Not only are they incredibly light weight i your hand, they can get under anything thanks to their thin edges.

Need to lift thin cookies off a sheet tray? Fish spatula. Flip a pancake? Fish spatula. Gently press down a grilled cheese? Fish spatula. Need to cut that grilled cheese in half? Fish spatula. Frying fragile slices of tofu? Fish spatula. Rotate my favorite frozen hash brown patty in the air fryer so they crisp evenly? Fish spatula.

If I had to pair down my kitchen to just two items it would be a very good knife and a fish spatula.

The fish spatula was originally known as a “fish slice,” and was used for serving fish It was also made from silver instead of another metal like copper or iron so that it wouldn’t affect the flavor of the fish. The first fish slices can be dated back to the 1730s though they look quite different than the fish spatulas of today. Back then, the fish slices were made to look, like, well fish, scales and all. They were truly ornate and fully of whimsy (bring this back) and often included in full sets of flatware.

If you’re into vintage pieces and heirlooms, there are actually quite ornate and fun fish slices available on Ebay that i’m sure would garner quite a few oooh and ahhs at any dinner party — even if you’re not serving any fish. (Most options are anywhere from $500-$2000.)

Antique English Large Sterling Silver Fish Slice Server Georgian London 1823

ANTIQUE ENGLISH STERLING SILVER FISH SLICE by ELEY & FEARN, LONDON, 1821

The modern day version of this tool evolved to have slots so that it’s easier to drain liquids like oil or water from whatever you are cooking. Fish spatulas are made with all kinds of materials, especially for the handle. There’s wood, silicone, and metal options. I like the feel of the wood handle, and it tends to be a more affordable option. You can easily find a fish spatula for less than $10. But if you want to be able to put it in the dishwasher, I would grab one with a silicone edge (great for someone who uses a lot of nonstick pans) or metal handle. It also makes the best gift. Need a stocking stuffer this holiday, or a hostess gift, or something for a beginner cook or a cook who has it all? (You can never have enough fish spatulas.) While the modern version looks sleek, I am begging one of the new cookware brands to make a fish spatula that leans into the whimsy and looks a little more fish like!

Below some solid fish spatula options:

New Star Foodservice | reliable, wooden handle, affordable

Misen| chic, metal handle, dishwasher safe

DaiRen| sleek, silicone edge, nonstick pan-friendly