Rainy Days and Mondays

One of the things I enjoy about staying in one place for an extended time is not having to worry about the weather—if it’s cool or rainy for a few days, it doesn’t matter; we have lots of time!

And so, it’s been a bit showery for the last couple of days, and although cycling is pretty much out of the question, that doesn’t stop us from getting out and about. We just put on a jacket, grab an umbrella, and continue on foot as per usual.

Today, we decided it was about time to go out for a meal. We’ve already been here eight days and haven’t even set foot in a restaurant. I was determined to find someplace that served carciofi fritti (fried artichokes), as the season is nearing its end. They are still available in the veggie markets, but every time I try to find a good recipe, it seems like a lot of faffing about is necessary—especially if you want to try them battered and fried.

And so we decided to look for someplace that would fit the bill. I asked for recommendations in our Lucca FB group and someone suggested Osteria Tosca which, as luck would have it, was only a couple of blocks from our apartment. It’s situated in front of Puccini’s birthplace, directly facing the statue of him seated casually in the middle of the piazza, a cigarette dangling from his fingers.

We walked over around 1 p.m. and were able to get a table for two inside. It was a bit chilly to sit outdoors, and we’d have been subjected to busloads of cruise ship tourists from nearby Livorno, gawking at the statue.

Inside, the restaurant had a charming olde worlde appeal that made us feel right at home. The walls were a muted peach and covered in pictures of Giacomo Puccini, composer of many operas including Tosca, for which the restaurant was named. Erik noted that Puccini never seems to smile in any photos, and I think he has a bit of a “I think I’m so great” look to him.

We shed our rain jackets, sat down at a table for two, and began to peruse the menu. It didn’t take long to agree on sharing a plate of fried artichokes with lemon juice and salt as an appetizer, followed by a local specialty for me—tordelli Lucchese—and a pasta dish with coniglio (rabbit) for Erik. Both were delicious. Our dolce was the equivalent of a chocolate lava cake, served with two tiny cups of espresso.

It was a lovely way to spend a rainy afternoon—sipping wine, eating delicious food, and chatting with other patrons who were in a similar frame of mind.

After lunch, we went for a wander, primarily to find a place to mail the postcard I was sending to my grandson, Sebastian. Apparently, you can’t put an overseas letter or postcard in a red mailbox; it has to go in one marked “GPN.” After checking out a number of places, we finally went back to the shop where I’d bought the postcard and stamp, and the young man directed me to the correct receptacle.

At first, I couldn’t figure out how to put the postcard into the mailbox, but then I tried lifting the top and—sure enough—that’s all I had to do, despite the fact that there was a lock on the front. Of course, I could easily have retrieved any number of letters from inside if I’d wanted to—or even walked off with the lightweight plastic box. Such is Italy, I guess.

There are many things you can do on a rainy afternoon in Lucca. Some people enjoy shopping—either in the busy, trendy shops along Via Fillungo or the quieter places tucked away on side streets. Whether it’s touristy trinkets, Italian couture, leather goods, jewelry, gelato, salami, or baked treats, there’s something for everyone. We decided to pick up a loaf of Lucca’s specialty bread, buccellato, studded with raisins and subtly flavoured with anise.

If you have any energy after your leisurely lunch, you can opt to climb one of several towers in town for spectacular views of the city. One tower in particular—Torre Guinigi—has seven stunted oak trees growing on its very top. Of course, the view is perfect on a sunny day, but it’s amazing in any kind of weather.

There are also several museums in town. The Palazzo Mansi and the Villa Guinigi are two national museums worth the entry fee—although if you’re here long enough, they offer free admittance on the first Sunday of every month. There are also a number of private museums, including Puccini’s birthplace and a museum dedicated to Pinocchio, whose creator—140 years ago—was from Lucca.

And of course there’s the Domus Romana, which was found in the basement of an old villa. The owner discovered Roman ruins while doing renovations and had to halt construction and wait for archaeologists to do their work for a year or two before he could finish. Subsequently, he turned it into a small museum and now charges tourists to come in and see centuries of history layered in one place.

This is really just a small sampling of things to do indoors on a rainy day in Lucca, but if you’ve truly seen everything there is to see—and after three trips, we still haven’t seen it all—you can always hop on a train and, in less than 30 minutes, visit the indoor sights in neighbouring towns and villages.

Whether your “thing” is eating, shopping, history, exercise, or just plain curiosity, there’s always something to do in Lucca, in any kind of weather.