Eat here. Drink this.

If the last week has shown us anything, it is that heroes can fall.

In today’s India, it is important to choose your idols carefully. I have long given up on celebrity culture – Bollywood and cricketers seem more interested in commercial success than public responsibility – preferring to focus my attention on people actually making a difference, even in a small way.

My heroes, for the moment, are Gen Z: the generation that persistently took to the streets demanding accountability, and the many independent reporters on the ground at Jantar Mantar giving us live, unbiased news.

If you are wondering why politics is mentioned in a food publication, a gentle reminder that food is political. Just look at the beef lynchings, the absence of ‘impure’ food in midday meals for children, among many other injustices.

At Goya, we believe that every kind of food story deserves a voice. Especially the hunger protests. One of the most moving parts of the protests was seeing how India’s love language was food: Nihang Sikhs set up a langar, one man was distributing protein shakes, others were handing out Melody chocolates. Further, people from all over India sent kilos and kilos of food using delivery services and apps.

It was heartening to see people in the food industry show up. Kona Sandwich Shop in Delhi kept a steady supply of free sandwiches going into Jantar Mantar; Gimme That delivered smash burgers; and Blue Tokai opened their doors to people running away from the police.

These people are deserving of admiration for their courage, care, and generosity.

I do not have idols, but there are certainly people (largely women!) whom I admire. And luckily for me, over the last two weeks I was able to meet quite a few of them.

A quick visit to Hyderabad had me drinking a curd-rice-inspired cocktail at Bar Stormy. The newest bar from the stable of Minakshi Singh (sidebar: she will be speaking at GRAIN soon!) and Yangdup Lama, is named after the cocktail Dark ’n Stormy (catch our History on the Rocks episode here to learn about the origin of the drink) and serves ingredient-forward drinks alongside a fun take on Telugu food. My recco: the nihari feast, and a cocktail that will remind you of curd rice.

Bangalore is easily my favourite city after Mumbai – largely owing to the high density of close friends living there. It doesn’t hurt that most of the Goya team is here too! It also boasts one of the most exciting culinary scenes in the country. In my one week there, I met many friends and ate a lot of good food (courtesy, again, of many excellent women).

Nāvu: Now in a new location on MG Road. While it may be missing the warmth of the old place, the food is still stellar, as are the affectionate hugs of co-founder Kanishka Gupta. Definitely try the short rib stroganoff and the bonbons with liver pâté. The latter is a strange pairing that somehow works great.

Coracle: A meal at Tresa Francis’ restaurant feels like you’ve walked into her home. It is homely, filling, and straight-up delicious. My personal favourite was the beef fry, prawn and mango curry, with appams.

Bar Wild: An impromptu plan turned into a four-hour session at this hidden bar where Venezuelan-born, Bangalore-obsessed Alexander Torrealba dishes up some seriously good cocktails. My recco: the onion-laced Ota ‘Ika. (I had two!) He is also legendary for serving what one friend calls the best Old Fashioned in the city.

ZLB 23: While the speakeasy is known for its jazz nights, great drinks, and the nested bar, The Theatre, my favourite part of the experience was the food. There was plenty of seafood and dishes packed with bold flavours. Don’t miss the cuttlefish.

Circa 11: I believe it is one of Bengaluru’s most underrated spots – mostly because the owners aren’t associated with any of the city’s food circles or WhatsApp groups. Great food treated with care, exciting drinks, and their coffee bar is also a treat. Definitely try the ginger jaggery coffee. It is like drinking a sweet.

As you have probably gleaned by now, I am rather fond of dispensing unsolicited restaurant recommendations. Happily, if Instagram is anything to go by, other people seem to appreciate it. My latest: a guide to all the good food I ate in Nepal.

Goya doesn’t just share excellent food suggestions – this October, we are putting our money where our mouth is. At SALT, you will get to meet some of the wonderful people and brands we admire and work with. Early bird tickets drop THIS SATURDAY!

Pranoy Thipaiah hosted our latest session on the Future of Indian specialty coffee. Here are a few snippets from a fascinating evening learning about fungi, bisons, wild fig trees and other biodiversity that influences the flavour, taste, and aroma of coffee. Next week, Marc Tormo leads a session that examins the transformation of sugars into acids, the different types of fermented coffee and what distinguishes them, and the different approaches that create distinct profiles. You can book a spot here.

In Dawoodi Bohri homes, lasan kheemo is not merely a celebrated winter dish. It contains a history of their people, a written legacy of who they are, made with fat and spices, flavoured with green garlic. Insia Lacewalla shares her mother’s recipe for this seasonal favourite. Read more.

TASNEEM LACEWALLA’S RECIPE FOR LASAN KHEEMO

Ingredients
1 kg green garlic (leaf, bulb, roots), washed, dried and finely chopped (leaf, bulb, roots)
1 kg minced meat
1 tbsp fresh ginger and garlic paste
1 tsp fresh green chilli paste
1 tsp roasted cumin powder
Salt to taste
2 litres of ghee
12 desi eggs
1 sigdi + coal
1 aluminium or steel platter

Full recipe here.

#GoodThings What we’re enjoying this week:

Anutamma Chocolate: Really good vegan chocolate, free of additives and preservatives. Find them here.

Cosmix Beet Cacao Protein Powder: Plant-based and delicious. It has been a staple in my kitchen for two years. Another woman-owned brand. Find it here.

Velo Forged Saucepan from Tramontina: A ceramic non-stick pot for all those one-pot meals. Great blue colour, and it doesn’t require much oil. Shop them here.

Until next week,
bon appetit.

Words by Joanna Lobo.