Smith-Madrone 2019 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Drive around Napa for a short while and you’ll quickly understand that Cabernet Sauvignon is the king. When you walk into nearly any winery tasting room, there are more and more Cabernets on offer than ever before. In some instances, the array of different Cabernets is quite simply dazzling. So much so, that you’ll be forgiven if you miss the fact that there are less and less wines that are not Cabernet Sauvignon on offer. Look at the planted acres that are marked, Cabernet, Cabernet, Cabernet. This isn’t fresh news, but it’s increasingly true as time marches on. Cabernet Sauvignon can command big scores and big scores command big dollars. Plenty of wineries are chasing both. And hey, commerce has to be part of the equation for it to work. To be fair, it’s worth noting Cabernet produces some of the best wines on earth. But the monoculture we’re seeing with a nearly singular focus on Cabernet, specifically in Napa, is over the top in my view. Especially when you consider how well certain other grapes thrive there too. The more salient part of the issue is that many of the producers chasing scores are crafting wines to hit a particular profile, not necessarily to bottle what’s most reflective of their vineyards.

But then we come to my personal favorite Napa winery, Smith-Madrone. Their portfolio is comprised of three core wines that are out in the marketplace, and a couple of smaller production wines available directly through them. Their core is Riesling, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon. In my view, all things considered, it’s the best Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa.

Smith-Madrone 2019 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($65)

It’s 85 % Cabernet and the balance Cabernet Franc (12%), and Merlot (3%). Just more than 1,500 cases were bottled, and that represents their largest production wine, but just by a few hundred cases. As with their Riesling and Chardonnay which I covered recently, the Cabernet Sauvignon is truly reflective of it’s place in the world. It’s clearly Spring Mountain fruit from Napa. Black raspberry aromas are the first sign of the dark fruit that defines this Cabernet Sauvignon from first whiff, to last sip. Minerals and earth notes are at play too. The finish is long and refreshing. Drink this Cabernet now or lay it down for a decade or more. In either case, when you open it you’ll be pleased. Bottom line, that’s a damn good glass of Cabernet Sauvignon.

Stu Smith, who along with his brother Charlie have run the winery for over 50 years, once told me, “that they like to price their wines at the high end of drinkability.” In short they want you to enjoy these wines with your meals and your life. A lot of producers are chasing big scores and trophy wines. I’m sure Stu and Charlie appreciate good scores too, but their overriding goal, has always seemed to me, to be growers of good, and genuine wines, reflective of their property. It’s pretty obvious when you taste the wines, they’re nailing those goals. $65, for the level of quality in the bottle is a steal. So to recap: genuine wine, reflective of it’s vineyard, made in comparatively low quantities, ready to drink now and worthy of aging, selling for an amazing price relative to its local competition. So yes, for all of those reasons Smith-Madrone consistently produces Napa’s best Cabernet Sauvignon. That’s a hill (maybe mountain) I’m ready to plant a flag on.

I paired it with Porcini Mushroom Porridge. The meaty notes from the mushroom and the richness of the Pecorino Romano I topped it with, really played well with the Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon. What did you pair your bottle of Smith-Madrone Cabernet with?