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Gabe Sasso on Wine & Spirits · Aug 23, 2024

Catching up with Pedroncelli Winery

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Gabe Sasso · Gabe Sasso on Wine & Spirits

I recently had the chance to catch up over Zoom with Julie St. John, and taste through a half dozen current releases. In case you’re unfamiliar, Julie is the Third Generation President of Pedroncelli Winery.

Located in Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley, they were founded in 1927. Julie took over the reins as President from her dad Jim Pedroncelli, a Sonoma County Icon, just two years ago. That changing of the generational guard is one of several adjustments they made. They brought a GM on board from outside the winery, redid the labels and packaging, added a few wines and subtracted a few others.
The packaging changes bring their history into focus with proprietary names, and labels that showcase their family history. The handful of wines added to the lineup, and a couple that were dropped, sharpen the focus on the fact they they are a Dry Creek Valley Winery through and through.

If you keep up with wine business news you’ll hear a lot of concern about wine sales dropping. That made it especially nice to hear that Pedroncelli is bucking that trend with sales growth at a time that many others are headed in the wrong direction.

My first time tasting their wines was some 30 years ago. A bottle of Mother Clone Zinfandel was sent as part of a wine club I belonged to at the time. It was my first known exposure to Zinfandel, and it left such a mark that my next time in California, I made a bee line for Dry Creek Valley to visit Pedroncelli. I’ve never stopped returning, and back in 2017 I was honored to be an invited guest at their 90th anniversary celebration. The background of the photo above is from that day.

As they approach the major milestone of 100 years it’s really heartwarming to see them thriving. They’re really good people, producing genuine Dry Creek Valley wines that have always offered a tremendous amount of value.

I tasted these wines while Julie and I Zoomed and discussed them. I went back to them later that day and over the next couple of days. I had a hard time staying away, they’re a delightful bunch, and represent only part of their portfolio. The first 4 represent their “core four.” Those are the wines most widely available on store shelves.

Pedroncelli 2023 Giovanni & Giulia Sauvignon Blanc ($22)

Sauvignon Blanc is the signature white grape of the Dry Creek Valley. Inside and outside of Dry Creek Valley so many Sauvignon Blancs are a bit one directional. They can be super grassy or overly tropical to name a couple of directions. The ones I enjoy the most find a middle ground that isn’t extreme. This offering from Pedroncelli is one of those. It has bits of grass and green apple, but that’s counterbalanced by citrus and tropical fruit aromas and flavors. The freshness and well rounded nature of this Sauvignon Blanc will make it an excellent partner for roasted vegetables, chicken, and entrée salads, to name a few.

Pedroncelli 2022 Sonoma Classico ($24)

“Red Blend” means different things to different people. But don’t confuse this wine with all those supermarket shelf blends. This one is a couple of cuts above those, a grown up red blend if you will, for those ready to graduate. It’s a proprietary blend of Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese, Tinta Madeira, and Souzao. It leans towards the fruit forward side and it’s loaded with appealing red and black fruit, alongside spices. The velvety finish offers a nice final kiss. More than anything this wine brings to mind friends, food and fun.

Pedroncelli 2022 Mother Clone Zinfandel ($24)

I can’t think of, or taste Mother Clone without being transplanted back to Dry Creek Valley and my first time there in the mid 90’s. While Cabernet is the most widely planted grape in Dry Creek, Zinfandel is the beating heart of the region. Mother Clone is, and essentially always has been, the flagship wine of Pedroncelli. The minute you stick your nose near the glass, you know it’s unapologetically Zinfandel. It’s a bold, jam laden nose. But then when you sip it you find a very balanced wine loaded with spice, fruit and depth. Red berry fruits dominate. There’s some Petite Sirah (9%) blended in and it provides a dark contrast and lovely bottom end. Mother Clone has been my go to, everyday Zinfandel for 30 years now, it should be yours too. If you want to know what Dry Creek Valley Zin tastes like, Mother Clone is as good a place to start as any.

Pedroncelli 2022 Brother’s Mark Cabernet Sauvignon ($24)

This wine was named to honor Jim Pedroncelli and his late brother John. They’re the second generation stewards of the winery who turned Pedroncelli into a premium wine producer. Red and black fruits dominate alongside black and white pepper spice. Bits of Herbes de Provence are evident too. The finish is earthy and dry. This is an excellent value in everyday drinking Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s got plenty of genuine character and it’s medium bodied so it’ll work well as a house red. Your burger will love this Cab.

Pedroncelli 2022 Bushnell Vineyard Zinfandel ($45)

This single vineyard wine is entirely Zinfandel. The Bushnell vineyard has been part of the family or extended family dating back to 1943. Single Vineyard wines exist because they should represent something, well singular. I’ve long believed that the distinctiveness of special Zinfandel Vineyards is as apparent and elevated as of those representing any other grape. This incredibly spicy, berry laden example from Pedroncelli is one such offering. It’s dry, earthy, and structured. It offers lots of fruit, plenty of acid, depth and length to spare. It’ll evolve nicely for a decade, but it’s simply too beautiful and delicious now, not to drink it up.

Pedroncelli 2021 Wisdom Cabernet Sauvignon ($60)

Despite Cabernet being Dry Creek Valley’s most planted grape, I don’t think they get enough credit for how well it can thrive there. There are numerous reasons for that, including the fact that some of that fruit gets blended into wines from other areas without specific attribution. It’s a shame because wines like this single vineyard gem show off not only that Cabernet does thrive in Dry Creek Valley, but that it’s unique relative to both its nearby and further away neighbors. The vineyard this fruit comes from has been in the Pedroncelli family for nearly 60 years. This is a stunning expression of Cabernet Sauvignon that truly highlights how well the most planted grape on earth can do in Dry Creek Valley. It’s full bodied and rich, but shows off an underlying softness that’s just lovely and beautiful. Dark berries, black pepper, dusty dark chocolate, bits of chicory, and a sprinkling of Herbes de Provence. The finish here is long and nuanced. This wine represents an absolutely outstanding value in Cabernet Sauvignon. No need to break the bank for a special occasion wine. My friends at Pedroncelli have you sorted for just $60.

It was so good to catch up with Julie and taste some current wines from Pedroncelli. Closing in on 100, they’re absolutely flourishing, which is a true joy to see and taste. Drink Pedroncelli wines, they’re well made, delicious, and fairly priced!

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