The Ortigia Edit 🇮🇹

This post may get cut-off in your inbox. Click the title above to read the full version.

The island of Ortigia is, in my opinion, one of the first places you should visit in Sicily. Less bustling & urban than famous Palermo, and less touristy than the much-hyped Taormina, Ortigia is full of local charm, ancient Greek ruins, incredible food, and is fully walkable with a scenic coastline tour that will take you about an hour. Whether you have a quick weekend getaway planned or a full week-long trip, there’s plenty to do here and all within a comfortable radius.

Ortigia is less polished than many other Italian hotspots, and this is a good thing. Restaurants still feel genuinely family-run, interiors still feel cozy & kitsch instead of instagram-sanitized, and menu offerings still feel hyper-local instead of trend-oriented. From jaw-dropping beaches to a bustling market to gorgeous architecture, this is a truly stunning destination worth visiting.

Here are the Ortigia hotspots I point friends to when they ask.

x Nicoletta 🍋

🍋 website / 📍 google maps

Casa Sabir is a stylish apartment dating to the early 1900s, on the first floor of a historic palazzo in Ortigia. Located in the heart of Syracuse, Sicily it overlooks this historic island’s bustling food market (more on that below), with a lovely sea view from its balconies and room for up to 4 guests. Its interiors combine charming original floor tiles and rustic plaster walls with contemporary touches, with all mod cons at your fingertips such as air conditioning, washer / dryer, wifi, and a full kitchen. Most importantly, from Casa Sabir you can walk to everything on this list, as well as enjoy a glass of wine straight from the flat’s iconic wine cellar.

🍋 instagram / 📍 google maps

Stepping into Trattoria La Foglia is like stepping into the Sicilian living room of your dreams – with mismatched vintage furniture & tableware everywhere, lace doilies on the tables, and chandeliers suspended above. But don’t let its bohemian character fool you, because the food here is serious business. Warm and family-run, it is renowned for exceptionally good Pasta alla Norma, fresh pasta with ricotta and lemon, traditional citrus salads, and fresh seafood catches like swordfish, tuna, and lobster. Vegetarians will find plenty here also, so it’s a perfect stop for everyone in your crew.

• • •

🍋 instagram / 📍 google maps

‘a Putia is a cozy, unpretentious restaurant that will probably have a bit of a queue when you arrive (and nope, you can’t book ahead). Its menu is authentic and homely with traditional Sicilian comfort foods like pistachio pesto pasta, all sorts of bruschetta, and charcuterie boards with local meats & cheeses. Super friendly staff, generous portions, fair prices, & quirky Sicilian décor – what more could you want?

• • •

🍋 instagram / 📍 google maps

Part alimentari, part restaurant, Casa Trimarchi is a rustic, family-run establishment nestled into a quiet side street. The menu here is truly special, serving farm-to-table dishes made with organic vegetables and ingredients grown on the owners’ own agricultural estate. Lovely outdoor seating with a view towards Piazza Duomo. In-house specialities such as Zia Carmela’s meatballs, caponata, and eggplant parmesan.

🍋 instagram / 📍 google maps

This is your spot for a truly inventive meal: a fabulously contemporary bistro with neighboring concept store and lush inner courtyard. Thanks to the fact that it was a former art space and design workshop, the vibe here is more vintage + mid-century + industrial than your average old-school trattoria, with retro furniture, mismatched found objects, and funky lighting throughout. Its menu features seasonal plates with modern or creative twists, and a very cute interior bar serves incredible, fresh cocktails and natural wines. Expect a small but high quality (and frequently rotating) menu using local ingredients. A truly unique experience in Ortigia.

• • •

🍋 instagram / 📍 google maps

This place is serious about raw fish, and at 6 years old is still one of the ‘newer’ kids on the block. Famous for ultra-fresh carpaccio, tartare, ceviche, and gorgeous seafood platters, this place also has great cocktails and homemade breads. If you’re looking for a spot with elegant plating and a contemporary concept for a special night out, this is the place.

🍋 instagram / 📍 google maps

These are the sandwiches of your wildest dreams and you need to go here, full stop. Grab a panini for the beach, pick up fine cheeses for the house (many are made in-house), or take away cured meats for a delicious charcuterie board. You really can’t go wrong, and everything here is delicious – plus, you could do worse than a “I ♥️ BORDERI” T-shirt as your vacation souvenir. The shop is located at the edge of the Ortigia market, and lines can get LONG – so head here at a peculiar hour if you can. Fantastic, big portions. Go multiple times in your trip to try different things, if you can.

• • •

🍋 instagram / 📍 google maps

One of the stalls in the vibrant Ortigia Market, Tito Mare is a fantastic seafood spot for when you want something great that doesn’t break the bank. With tons of fresh fish, fried fish, and shellfish on offer, this is the place for excellent prawns, calamari, seafood bruchette, and the like. Wonderful, lively atmosphere. Casual enough to hit in your beachwear. And definitely a perfect place to stop when touring the market has made you ravenously hungry. If you’re with a group, go for one of the XXL seafood platters – these are truly excellent.

• • •

🍋 instagram / 📍 Via Cavour or Piazza Duomo

Surely you came to Italy expecting pizza, and while in Ortigia, this is your place to get it. The pizzas here lean toward Napoli style, but have a distinctly Sicilian feel – with regional toppings such as local coppa, yellowfin tuna, and Sicilian sausage. Pizzas featuring yellow datterino tomato sauce and pistachio pesto are also house favorites. Head to the location by Piazza Duomo for lovely views, or just map your way to whichever location is closest when you get hungry. Also try the salads!

🍋 instagram / 📍 google maps

Fellow wine-lovers, this is your spot. Equally a wine bar, wine shop, and great place for small nibbles, Enoteca Solaria manages to feel rustic and old-school while also serving up an incredible selection of hip natural wines, which is a combo I don’t find often. The owners are lovely, super knowledgeable about wine, and happy to make suggestions. The patio is a lovely spot for a few rounds, day or night. And in general the vibe here was one of my favorites in all of Ortigia – perfectly relaxed, with a truly excellent selection of wines. Head here for orange wine & aperitivi in the evening, or grab takeaway bottles for the beach!

• • •

🍋 instagram / 📍 google maps

This is a fantastic place to eat AND drink, so please do pretend it’s in both sections – but more often than not it’s a hankering for a killer cocktail (and swanky vibes) that brings me here. While seated in the candle-lit courtyard you’ll be surrounded by stunning 18th-century Baroque stone architecture, and for that alone I’d send you here – but luckily the beverages are delicious and truly inventive, with a rotating menu that features local, seasonal ingredients. Try their take on a Negroni if that’s your thing, or the Madame (with bergamot and hibiscus) for something more fresh & botanical.

• • •

🍋 instagram / 📍google maps

Another excellent natural wine spot, with many local bottles so you can really get to know the region’s terroir, as well as delicious small plates. Relaxed, unpretentious vibe. Super friendly service. Also a great place for coffee during the day.

📍 google maps

This bustling market is an absolute must when in Ortigia. Browse local produce, seafood, and traditional street food in this open air market (such as arancini, nuts & spices, and fresh oysters) while taking in the calls of vendors all around you. I’d arrive around 11:30am to give yourself some shopping time, before becoming wickedly hungry (when you should then head to Caseificio Borderi or Tito Mare as suggested above). The market ends around 1:30/2pm and note it’s closed on Sundays. Perfect place to grab souvenirs with a smaller section of clothes, hats, bags, and trinkets.

• • •

🍋 instagram / 📍 google maps

Now we have the deli of your wildest dreams – filled to the brim with cured meats, cheeses, preserves, more sandwiches & charcuterie boards, local Sicilian produce, house-made provisions (such as caponata and pesto), and more. Possible to eat in or takeaway, and open from early morning to late night every day but Sunday – so it’s sure to slot into your itinerary somehow. Just go here.

• • •

For the most scenic beaches in Ortigia, head to Forte Vigliena / Spiaggia Diana del Forte and Spiaggia di Cala Rossa.

For local landmarks: Syracuse Cathedral, Temple of Apollo, Chiesa di Santa Lucia, and Castello Maniace.

And finally, hit up MOON and Cuccumella when you need a casual café, and Viola Bakery for quick breakfast pastries like cornetto di crema 🥐

P.S. If you enjoyed this, there’s so much more coming… Make sure you subscribe to get all of my future city guides, etc.

x Nicoletta 🍋