IN THE EARLY DAYS OF THIS NEWSLETTER, a woman voluntarily exited our lovely society here because, as she put it: too much butter and cheese. She was responding to a newsletter featuring a quiche Lorraine recipe, so naturally I got a little defensive. I would love to see you make it another way, I said directly to her, in my mind. Go! Enjoy your cheeseless, unbuttered life!
Then I broke down in sobs, tore my garment, and made a mental list of all the reasons she was wrong, specifically about cheese. When you like cheese as much as I do, any attack is basically unfathomable. Which is why I didn’t stop to think that maybe she was allergic to dairy or on a restricted diet.
The simple truth is that any cheese is indeed too much cheese for those of us who have an issue with cheese. Even if, as in the case of Craig (my favorite and most vocal anti-cheese subscriber), your issue is just the fact that you really, really don’t like it. (Hello, Craig. I’m sorry you won’t enjoy this issue, but I’ll have plenty of cheese-less issues in the future and there are more in the archive.)
For the rest of us it’s either enough or not nearly enough, the latter of which is often considered unacceptable to some people in polite culinary society. But remember: We’re all different, and there’s no reason to get judgy. Isn’t this world difficult and unkind enough without also having to hear from certain people that the foods you enjoy are. . . wrong?
Which is why I was especially happy to get this recent comment about my Blue Cheese and Shredded Iceberg Salad:
“So interesting, I was thinking about how much cheese I put in salads (a lot) (someone once referred to my salad as a cheese salad). And was thinking, I wonder what types of cheeses Emily puts in her salads. I wonder if Emily would do a whole post on cheese in salad. Well, this is pretty close. Brava!”
It was from the wonderful book author Julie Klam, whose writing I have always loved and admired. She now has a newsletter that will be dear to the hearts of all of you dog lovers—and mere dog likers, and beyond.
Not only was I thrilled to know that Julie and I were simpatico in this area but her note inspired me to come up with today’s little roundup of some of my cheese-centric favorites from throughout the years. But first I had to email her to find out about that salad. Her family was weeping? Too much cheese? Too much of one salad? Tell me more. Here’s what she wrote back:
For about a year, every night I made a pear, arugula, gorgonzola, red onion and caramelized pecan salad until my family started weeping that they were sick of that salad. I love salad, I eat at least one a day, but frequently the tomatoes aren’t as good as you hope, the carrots are bleh, the veggies are disappointing. But the cheese always delivers. If all else sucks in the salad, I have cheese.
The cheeses I put in salad: gorgonzola, shaved parmesan, feta, goat (sometimes baked) and occasionally strips of Jarlsberg—because I come from the ‘70s where chef salads with julienne strips of cheese and cold cuts were my “health food.” (and I had it with blue cheese dressing!!)
A couple weeks ago, I was in a rut. Do you know how sometimes a food you like suddenly seems disgusting? I was looking at gorgonzola and thinking, “Ew, that’s mold.” And I realized I needed more cheese ideas for my salads. Or maybe I needed a hobby.
Julie sounds to me like someone who definitely knows her way around a salad. In fact, the salad her family got tired of is one I haven’t made in years but adore; lots of delicious mold!—and I use the photo of it in my e-mail signature.
That is the omni-wonderful nature of salad.
I’m still hoping I can surprise her—and you—with at least one or two unfamiliar cheese deployments. Thanks for the inspiration, Julie. (PS, in my opinion, salad is the only hobby anyone needs).
Now, some cheese-laden highlights from the Department of Salad.
I’M GOING TO START YOU OFF WITH summery ones then move toward more autumnal dishes, because it’s not going to be this hot forever.
The first one is so simple it defies its own deliciousness—Simple but Bonkers Cherry Tomato, Cantaloupe, and Mozzarella Salad.
Next, a Refreshing Watermelon and Radish Salad with a Whisper of Feta
Then it’s on to a couple of strawberry salads. One is so insanely simple and summery you’ll put it on repeat; the other is gorgeous and delicious and worth the tiny bit more effort it takes.
Then there’s a Warm Cauliflower with Cheddar and Caraway, slightly adapted from Deborah Madison—seriously one of my all-time favorite cauliflower dishes.—and finally a gorgeous roasted root vegetable platter with walnuts and blue cheese.
Clicking on the name of the salad in the photo caption takes you directly to the recipe; clicking on the name of the issue takes you to the whole newsletter. Enjoy them. We’ll see you soon with new salads. Okay?
🥬 That’s it! We’re done here! We’ll see you soon with a recipe for authentic Argentine fugazzeta. I’m kidding! It’s going to be salad.
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