Florentine turns 10 years old!

Ten years ago my first cookbook with published.

Ten years of pursuing my dream job (7 cookbooks later).

Ten years of change.

First, some fun facts about Florentine:

• It should have come out in October 2015 but the release coincided with another Tuscan cookbook by the publisher so the release was pushed to 2016.

• The brilliant Lauren Bamford photographed the recipes (styled by Deb Kaloper) but I photographed all the location photos in and around Florence — some are digital but many of the images were taken in black and white and colour film and in medium format film. I wanted to include these photographs as a nod to the reason I was able to stay in Italy. I enrolled in a darkroom photography course (hence the large number of black and white photographs) to get a student visa that prolonged my working holiday visa. It was thanks to that visa that I got to know my future husband, which is the main reason I have called Italy home for so long.

• We had moved to Porto Ercole in 2015 and was working on both the end of Florentine and the start of my second cookbook, Acquacotta, at the same time.

• The photograph on the back cover of me holding my passed out toddler was taken by my sister, Hana, and it is an accurate depiction of what was happening in my life at the time of writing the book!

• A second edition came out in 2021 with a new marbled cover and an updated restaurant guide.

• Florentine won Best Italian Cuisine Book at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards 2017 and won the Designers’ Choice Book of the Year and Best Designed Cookbook at the 2017 ABDA awards (the work of clever designer Allison Colpoys).

Florence in 2016 was a place that I now yearn for again. So much has changed since then and I won’t just blame it on overtourism, as I think part of the problem is an entirely global issue that you will find has happened all over the world. Airbnb changed everything in Florence — it drove residents out who couldn’t afford the price hikes in the centre. Once you drive out the people that make up a city, it becomes even more of an amusement park than before. The rise of food tourism led to the centre also turning into a mangiatoia, as they say in Italian — a trough. While small businesses and artisans — the very thing that gives Florence character — struggled, big international chains came in to make it look like every other city in Europe.

Walk down the main arteries of Florence, such as Via Cavour, and the number of store closures that have taken place over the past decade is heartbreaking. Covid only helped to show Florentines what a shell of a city theirs had become — without tourists in the centre, what were all those shops and restaurants there for?

But there are places that stand the test of time (even these times that we are going through now), the places that were loved by Florentines for decades. These are the kind of places that I wrote about in Florentine between 2014 and 2015. It’s why I still tell people to look at the restaurant recommendations on my blog, which is more than ten years old now — because the good places are still good. They’re the places that have always been good.

Like I write in the introduction to Florentine, la squadra che vince non si cambia — you don’t change a winning team, or in other words, you should not (and need not) change a good thing. When the kitchen staples and favourite dishes are much the same as they were in Dante’s Florence or Catherine de’ Medici’s Florence, perhaps they will survive whatever it is we are going through now too. I often wonder if a city that lives in its past like Florence — famed for its history, which is seeped in every nook and cranny of the well-trodden streets — will do a better job at preserving its food history or will it turn those dishes into a caricature, an imitation, made for Instagram rather than for its citizens (yes, I’m thinking of wine doors, oversized panini, too many bistecche restaurants, and one particular caffe affogato, all examples of things that I think have taken things too far)? It is something I am thinking about and observing, I think there can be a very fine line between the two things.

When I wrote out the recipes for Florentine, I imagined the reader going on a journey through the day in Florence, starting with the pasticceria, heading to the forno (bakery), the mercato (market), the macellaio (butcher), the trattoria and ending in a passeggiata with a gelato (or glass of wine) in hand.

While some of the places I mention in Florentine are still well and truly not only alive and kicking, but are still the places I frequent, some have sadly disappeared (like the secret bakeries or pasticcerie notturne such as Forno Vinci & Bongini — I wrote more about them here — and the Anzuini & Massi butcher shop that had been running since the 1800s) and others have turned into places I would rather discourage you to visit now (but you can read more about why here and visit these places instead).

Here is my address book that I shared in the first edition of Florentine (minus those exceptions mentioned above), ten years ago, before social media became the main way people travelled. I share it here so you can continue using it, but also as a note for history that these are still here, still standing the test of time and delivering classic Florentine cuisine. I would love to know what you think — Can you find your favourites in this ten year old list?

Address Book

Pasticcerie e bar / PASTRY SHOPS AND CAFES

Places to go for an Italian-style breakfast (coffee and a pastry) in the morning or even an aperitivo in the evening. The bar is also a refuge at any time of the day for a refuel – whether it’s for coffee, ice-cold water or a sweet or savoury snack chosen from the glass counter. Standing at the bar is the local preference – expect to pay a little more when you sit down.

RIVOIRE
Piazza della Signoria 5. Convenient for its proximity tothe Palazzo Vecchio and the Uffizi, this classic Florentine bar is pricey so avoid sitting down. Take away or stand at the counter for a coffee and a pastry before heading out to see Botticelli.

PROCACCI

Via de’ Tornabuoni 64r. An historic bar with a fashionable address, come here for a snack of dainty truffle panini and a prosecco or tomato juice.

PASTICCERIA GIORGIO

Via Duccio di Boninsegna 36. Although outside the historical centre, it’s worth a hop on the tram to get to this elegant pastry shop for one of their spectacular crema-filled pastries. Their schiacciata alla fiorentina is a favourite and they also do a fantastic aperitivo.

Forni/ BAKERIES

The bakery is a busy place in the morning andat lunchtime, when people flock to buy bread, sweet baked goods or ready-to-eat snacks such as schiacciata, schiacciatine and pizza by the slice.

S. FORNO

Via Santa Monaca 3. A chic bakery run by the folk behind Il Santino and Il Santo Bevitore — they rescued an old bottega that had a bakery out the back (one of the few left in the historical centre) and turned it into a dedicated bakery.

CANTINETTA DEI VERAZZANO

Via dei Tavolini 18r. The main entrance to the little restaurant of this historical winemaking legacy is a wonderful bakery with excellent schiacciatine topped with seasonal vegetables, and biscotti, in particular. They are also one of the few places that always have cecina (or torta di ceci), a chickpea flour crepe-like specialty.

Mercati/ MARKETS AND FOOD SHOPPING

If shopping for food to take home and cook, my preference is the Sant’Ambrogio market – it’s authentic and un-touristy, so much more practical for food shopping. If you’re in the Oltrarno and don’t fancy going all the way to Sant’Ambrogio, Piazza Santo Spirito has a small, charming, outdoor market (a handful of fruit and vegetable stalls, plus household goods, clothing, shoes etc) every morning except Sunday, when there is an antique market every 2nd Sunday of the month other than July & August and an organic market every 3rd Sunday of the month other than August.

MERCATO CENTRALE

Via del Ariento. Open all day, every day, the upstairs section of this covered market is a modern, stylish – and pumping – food court. Downstairs you can still find some of the traditional food vendors – Nerbone still serves classic, no-frills Florentine fare.

MERCATO SANT’AMBROGIO

Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti. A covered market like the Central Market, here you will find the fruit and vegetable stands outside, while indoors are meat, poultry and fish vendors, an excellent fresh pasta shop, bakeries, dry goods and an extremely cheap and cheerful trattoria.

MERCATO SANTO SPIRITO

Piazza Santo Spirito. An outdoor market with a handful of stalls and a local, colourful feel to it.

BIZZARI

Via della Condotta 32r. An historical, apothecary-like shop where you buy things out of jars. The artisan candied fruit, spices and unusual ingredients are a good excuse tocome in here.

Trattorie/ TRATTORIAS

There are many restaurants to choose from in central Florence but these are my pick of the ones that offer classic, traditional Florentine fare at average prices.

ALLA VECCHIA BETTOLA

Via Luigi Ariosto 34r. On the edge of Florence’s Piazza Tasso in the San Frediano neighbourhood, this classic osteria is the big brother of Nerbone in the Central Market.

BRINDELLONE

Piazza Piattellina 10/11r. An off-the-beaten-path restaurant near Piazza del Carmine and a good choice for bistecca.

OSTERIA DEL CAFFÈ ITALIANO

Via Isola delle Stinche 11/13r. In addition to the classic Florentine fare, they have an excellent pizzeria next door, too.

TRATTORIA LA CASALINGA

Via dei Michelozzi 9r. This institute in the Santo Spirito quarter is a favourite local family restaurant.

TRATTORIA DA BURDE

Via Pistoiese 6r. Outside the historic centre but worth atrip for those looking for a seasonal and traditional localrestaurant serving things up just as the Florentines love.

DA RUGGERO

Via Senese 89r. A jewel of a trattoria just a little outside of the Porta Romana gateway.

I BUONGUSTAI

Via de’ Cerchi 15r. Down a side street off Piazza della Signoria, this tiny but reliable lunchtime space fills up very quickly. You can also simply grab a panino and sit in the corridor watching the amazing ladies in the kitchen cook up a storm. I have been eating here since 2005 and I am so thrilled to say it is exactly as it was back then.

OSTERIA TRIPPERIA IL MAGAZZINO

Piazza della Passera 2–3r. Set in the most charming piazza in Florence, this place specialises in – and does magic with – offal, but not exclusively.

SABATINO

Via Pisana 2r. A very cheap, no-frills family restaurant in the San Frediano quarter.

TRATTORIA SOSTANZA TROIA

Via del Porcellana 25r. An historic trattoria –come here for the butter chicken and the bistecca.

TRATTORIA MARIO

Via della Rosina 2r. San Lorenzo quarter, near the Mercato Centrale, they only open for lunch. Expect to queue or share tables with strangers.

Paninoteche/ PANINI SPOTS

From food vans to hole-in-the-walls, Florence has an excellent selection of places for a quick, cheap, made-on-the-spot panino and a little glass of wine.

I DUE FRATELLINI

Via de’ Cimatori 38r. In a side street near Piazza della Signoria, they have been doing this since 1875.

CASA DEL VINO

Via dell’Ariento 16r. Hidden near the San Lorenzo markets, it’s easy to miss this charming and historic wine bar and panino spot.

SERGIO POLLINI TRIPPAIO

Corner of via de’ Macci and Borgo la Croce (near theSant’Ambrogio market). This food van run by a father and son team is famous for its lampredotto panini.

SEMEL

Piazza Ghiberti 44r. Next to the Sant’Ambrogio markets, this creative panino place is so tiny, blink and you’ll miss it – but try not to, it’s really wonderful.

Enoteche/WINE BARS

There are only a few proper wine bars in Florence but they are good ones and all worth a visit for a glass of wine. Or more.

VOLPI E L’UVA

Piazza dei Rossi 1. A great wine bar next to the Santa Felicità church – pop in and put in a coin to turn the lights on to see Pontormo’s fresco of the Deposition on your way there.

PITTI GOLA E CANTINA

Piazza Pitti 16. Wine and dine with a view of Pitti Palace.

IL SANTINO

Via di Santo Spirito 60r. An atmospheric wine bar in an historic palazzo – also a good spot to wait for a table at next door’s Il Santo Bevitore.

Gelaterie/GELATO

Gelato abounds in Florence, but there’s gelato (the sort displayed in hideous, giant, brightly coloured mountains) and then there’s real, properly made, artisan gelato (soft and smooth, subtly coloured with natural ingredients and stored in deep tubs, sometimes hidden completely out of sight). It’s worthwhile seeking out the latter and these are a few of my favourites.

CARABÈ

Via Ricasoli 60r. Sicilian-style gelato and granita nearthe Accademia Gallery.

VESTRI

Borgo degli Albizi 11r. An artisan chocolate shop that also makes wonderful gelato, hidden away in metal tubs under the counter.

PERCHÈ NO

Via Tavolini 19r. A busy gelateria in the centre of town with interesting flavours such as sesame or rose.

GELATERIA DELLA PASSERA

Via Toscanella, 15r. A tiny, pretty gelateria in an equally pretty piazza with a small selection of unique flavours.

A note on Florentine addresses: you may find, confusingly, that a street has two doors with the same numbers, or that when looking for an address that numbers don’t apparently go in order down the street. Take a closer look at the colour of the street number – it will either be black/blue or red. Black or dark blue is for residences while red is for businesses. Written business addresses also have an “R” (for rosso, or red) immediately following the number.

Join me in these upcoming workshops:

One day Food writing Masterclass with Barbara Sweeney aka Food & Words in Canberra, 28 August, 2026. Details here.

My annual Venetian Lagoon workshop is returning for 5 nights on the island of Burano, 25-30 April 2027. We will be island hopping each day to discover the true, native Venice. Details here.

We have sold out places on our Giglio trip this September and have had so much request that we have decided to put one on next year. Please register your information to go on the list to be in the know when registration is ready by emailing me at info@emikodavies.com

My Sicilian workshop is fully booked this year, but I’ll be at Anna Tasca Lanza next year, 11-16 October 2027; email them for more information.