Mexico City Guide

After almost two years of freelancing, I took my first spontaneous “work-away” trip to Mexico City. Partly because deadlines have kept me tethered to my kitchen, partly rebellion. I’m in the final month of my manuscript, the last push before it’s due in early August, and with my talented friend and longtime colleague Nicole S. cross-testing some “problem children” recipes for me, I said yes.

We’d been to CDMX a few years ago and never stopped reminiscing about it. It’s a magical city: leafy parks, interesting architecture and all manner of masa: tacos, tlacoyos, quesadillas, tamales. So many cute dogs. And it’s an easy, direct flight from SFO.

With only a few days to plan, we skipped reservations, so most meals were casual. Fine-dining and Michelin-starred spots have flooded the city. Book ahead if that’s your thing. At the “cool” places, the walk-in-and-sit-at-the-bar culture I rely on as a party of two wasn’t really there.

This trip felt different from 2023. Social media has clearly made its mark: lines for aesthetic bakeries with their own Substacks, matcha everywhere, everyone heads-down on their phones. Americanization. I live in a major but relatively small city. I haven’t travelled a ton over the past couple years. Seeing this at scale was jarring.

Sharing highlights across sweet and savory food, coffee, museums, markets, and shoppy shops below. If you're like me, you look for inspiration everywhere, so whether or not you have a trip planned, I hope you take something from this guide.

I’d be remiss not to mention the timing, so close to Independence Day. I couldn't shake the discomfort of being a welcomed guest in Mexico while my own country debates who deserves to belong in it.