An April Escape to Capri

I am writing the start of this letter from my balcony in Capri (!!!). It is just shy of 11:00 am, and Raffaele—just shy of two years old—and I have been on the go since 5:00 am, but what a privilege it is to write those words. The sun is shining, and my neighbors at the bed and breakfast, the real-deal Capresi, born and raised, are speaking in Neapolitan dialect (or something close to it) that sounds like music to my ears. The older gentleman keeps repeating, “Maròn, maròn, ma fernisce! Tutt’ quant!!” (OMG, OMG, just stop, everyone!).

We had the opportunity to come to the island over the weekend, and though the journey is a bit of a hop, skip, and a jump, how could I possibly say no to Capri? People travel from all over the world to this glitzy and glam, yet incredibly natural, rugged, and green island. So, off we went.

We stayed at a quaint bed and breakfast owned by locals that make you feel right at home, just a five-minute walk from the main and glamorous Piazzetta, and two minutes from the local supermarket because, if you plan accordingly, you absolutely can do Capri somewhat on a budget, especially in the “shoulder season.”

The property included lemon trees, a garden, and a balcony with endless views of the sea, the kind that makes you wonder what it must be like to grow up here.

We decided to take the scenic route and headed to Marina Piccola around noon, about a 15-minute walk downhill. And you know what? We didn’t pass a single tourist the entire way down. Just us, the rugged terrain of the island, and little property gates dressed in wildflowers and greenery that followed us the whole descent.

The sun was strong, not a cloud in the sky, around 72 degrees Fahrenheit, and the water every shade of turquoise imaginable. It felt like the kind of weather that promises summer is on the horizon, even though it’s only April.

What I love about Marina Piccola are the views of Bagni Internazionali, with its famous candy-cane pastel striped umbrellas, and the island’s iconic Faraglioni in the distance, without needing to get up close and personal. Back in the ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s, Marina Piccola was synonymous with Capri’s glitz and glamour, as well as an artistic retreat that drew people from all over the world, thanks in part to queen Jackie Kennedy.

There’s no sand, so pack a trusty pair of flip-flops and take advantage of the various free beach nooks along the cove for a prime real estate beach spot.

Vacationing in Campania always means Neapolitans nearby, which practically guarantees instant connection. As soon as we arrived, a woman and her husband walked by, looked us up and down in a way that was both judgmental and not at all, and gave us a sharp “buongiorno,” as if they sensed we had Neapolitan ties. The rest is history. We ended up chatting the entire time about everything and nothing, as they shared stories of visiting the island again after being away for over 15 years.

Yes, coffee at the bars in Capri is expensive (and mediocre at best), but before heading to our B&B I spotted a salumeria, called Da Aldo, right at the Marina Grande port and knew I could most-likely count on whoever was behind the deli counter to make me a some-what fairly priced sandwich that would hold us over for the afternoon. The woman grabbed us a perfectly soft panino all’olio, and stuffed it with her finest prosciutto cotto and fior di latte, ringing up for just €3.50 a piece—the best part about sandwich culture down south that makes for an ideal beach lunch when you’re not listening to ABBA at a ritzy beach club.

I didn’t have much time to go into EVERY store I admire on the island (if you do, check out my Capri boutique guide), which I will be doing so when we head back this summer, but I went to three favorites. Farella Capri was the very first artisanal brand I discovered in Italy years ago, and it has stayed with me ever since. The Farella family is behind the brand, and everything is handmade on the island, either in the back of the boutique or at their weaving studio down the street.

The knit pieces are made from merino wool and cashmere in bright, cheerful colors, with silhouettes that capture the essence of true stile caprese. Even more special, women are behind every step of the process, from design to the storefront.

While I chatted with Margherita, the original founder, and her daughter Valentina, and tried on some new pieces from their S/S26 collection, they gifted my son a few leftover yarn cones, commonly used in the textile industry when working with high quality fibers, which have quickly become our new favorite beach toys. Farella truly is sustainable in every sense.

A store that is not on in my boutique guide is La Conchiglia Edizioni, an intimate bookshop in the center of town and an independent publisher. They’ve published nearly every book about Capri imaginable, often rare or previously unseen works by independent authors, honoring the island and those who know it inside and out.

Before a much-needed gelato break, we followed the sound of children laughing and found the local playground, Giardini della Flora Caprense, right next to the late-night spot Taverna Anema e Core (ironic, to say the least). I always love seeking out playgrounds, it’s one of the easiest ways to meet both locals and fellow travelers.

What we did the next day? The same thing all over again. So while Capri becomes a playground for the rich and famous in June, July, and August, it can still feel like an oasis if you let it. Embrace the wild side of the island, take the bus (if there is room…or just walk if you are up for it), speak with the locals who don’t know which way is left and right come tourist season, and carve out time to not chase anything but going with the flow. The island’s best surprises happen when nothing is planned.

Oh, and don’t just take a day trip. The beauty of the island comes out early morning and late evening.

For the go-to spots, Gillian Longworth McGuire just update her Capri guide I will be checking out when I head back again soon.

For more Capri and Capri-adjacent pieces: