Broccoli and Hazelnut, a marriage in two dishes

Broccoli is not my least favorite vegetable (that would be rutabaga), although it’s relatively low on the list. I don’t reach for it automatically at the grocery. It’s less interesting than broccoli rabe, its bitter cousin that flew the coop, went to Vassar, picked up a cig habit, and is working on an indie film in the city. But it’s ubiquitous, at very market under the sun, so any home cook would be wise to keep some back-pocket broccoli dishes in their arsenal.

I tend to cut the heads down to florets, tossing them in olive oil before going into a ripping hot convection oven to get crispy, a little charred at the edges. A few times a year, I might make an old-school, mayo-bound raw broccoli salad with bacon, as well.

Lately, however, I’ve been cooking them on the stovetop with lots of garlic and shallot, adding a bit of water to help them steam until tender. This technique has unlocked two new broccoli preparations I love. In both cases, the cooked broccoli is paired with roasted hazelnuts. There are few dishes that can’t be upgraded with the crunch of a nut, and I keep a pantry full of different types to deploy at dinnertime. For some reason, hazelnuts feel like the best fit when I think about broccoli - and these dishes, I think, confirm that notion.

I like this dish best as a side, perhaps with roasted chicken or a sliced Bavette steak.

Start by removing the thickest part of the stalk at the bottom, and then roughly chop the entire head of broccoli into pieces, putting them aside into a bowl. There should be very few full florets, unless they are quite tiny.

In a pan, cook lots of chopped garlic and some diced shallot until soft and perfumed, and the garlic is starting to develop the faintest color at the edges. Add the chopped broccoli into the pan, stir to combine, season with salt and pepper (and chili flake, if you like), and add 1/2 cup water, and cover.

Cook, stirring and checking occasionally, until the water is evaporated and the broccoli is tender but still vibrant in color. Remove from the heat, and season to taste with more salt and olive oil as needed.

To plate, pile the cooked broccoli into a bowl and top with roasted hazelnuts and shaved Gouda. I like this dish at room temp, too - if you have the time to allow the broccoli to cool.

If you’re smart (you’re reading this, so you must be a fucking genius), you will track down Jake’s Gouda. I first tried it (and fell in love) at Stissing House in Pine Plains, NY. Owing to the efforts of some friends, our favorite cheese shop in Charleston now stocks it.