In June of 2022, I embarked on an Ancestral Pilgrimage searching for my distant European roots. Below are my poetic reflections from the ninth part of my journey- a final stop to connect with my spiritual lineage at the burial place of the mystical sufi poet Mevlâna Jelaluddin Rumi.
My plane touches down at sunset
Taxi driving into pink clouds
My heart leaping
I catch glimpses of highway signs pointing to
“Mevlâna”
Our master
Rolling my suitcase through the square at night
Sacred geometry under my feet
Red roses, pink roses, everywhere
Turning and turning under the stars
I can’t stop singing
Alhamdulillah
لا اله الا الله
The Rumi hotel embraces me with deep red carpets
Windows with views of minarets
Call to prayer wafting in through curvaceous metal bars
Birds chirp me awake
Bound for Mevlâna Müzesi
Every moment has prepared me for this one
I am the sum of every moment I’ve spent in prayer,
in silence
in tears
making love
seeking to understand this world
in heartbreak
Every moment has prepared me for this one
Tall parted red curtains
make way for me to enter
past blue plastic booties scattered at the entrance
I drop to my knees
Mevlâna still lives here
The tourist stream is static
People reach over each other for the best staged profile pic with Rumi
I bite my internal tongue of judgment
A quiet corner calls me and I sit
Palms up
Head down
Surrounded in tombs
Delicately covered in deep green velvet cloth
Arabic calligraphy
and tall dervish hats
My heart breaks open
Tears pour down my cheeks
There’s something in the air
Perfume of love and pain
Visitors swarming
My body tingling
I begin soaring
Turning
Flying
This high
This ecstasy
Just from sitting here
Wow, Mevlâna
Drinking in the scent of apricots squishing under my feet fallen from trees
Turkish coffee and cigarette smoke
Roses grow around every corner
A belly full of dolmas and ayran
Roasting in the Turkish sun
Stray cats quarrel at restaurants
People walk the street with their tasbih
Families and lovers mosey through rose gardens at sunset
I’m drunk on love
Taxi adventures to tombs
Eventually the chickpea
will say to the cook,
“Boil me some more…”
Ateşbaz-i Veli Turbesi
Mevlana’s legendary cook
Tomb glows lime green
Nearly white roses bloom outside
I’m soaring
Green vines crown over stone archways
Sacred geometry carved in metal doors
YA HU
Ibn Arabi transmission lives on
Floating in the atmosphere of masters
On my way to mail postcards
A prayer rug shimmers deep red, gold, violet
“Your grandchildren will pray on it” he insists
Roll it up tight enough to fit in my carry on suitcase
I return to Mevlâna twice a day
Children and adults pass by
They giggle and point at me
I never have been able to hide but especially here
The guard nods at me
He knows, sees me
I can feel his heart
“In our town they don’t call you a sufi if you escape the pain”
I hear Mevlâna
My heart is breaking
I don’t belong here
Or anywhere
Unless we belong everywhere
and we’ve just forgotten that we belong to each other
I feel the countless times my white skin has granted me immunity to discomfort
Here the tall white girl covering her head praying at the feet of a sufi master is laughable
What if I could tell them that it confuses me, too?
Does it matter?
My skin grows thicker
as my heart breaks wider
into the fragrance of roses
Shams Tabrizi
I sit on the red carpet overlooking his tomb
Women file in for prayer
I stumble along pretending I also know these motions
like I’ve done them five times a day for my whole life
The elder woman next to me looks at me with loving eyes and speaks to me in Turkish
I smile lovingly back even though I don’t know what she’s saying
I feel her love
We pray
Our purses in front
The men below
I love being in the presence of only women
I exhale
They look me in the eyes and smile
If I spoke Turkish I would give her my phone number and adopt her
Her smile eases my daily outsider heartbreak
It is one thing to read about a place
but to step foot on land is to enter a world
Everyone is human
Everywhere I go, here I am
Allah is everywhere too
This air is undeniably intoxicating
Roses will never stop singing
My daily dispatches echo
“I’m so in love”
Can’t stop turning
California dreaming
Contagious bliss
Alhamdulillah
Spinning in circles until dawn
I carried a small white tin across borders
Collecting dirt from my ancestor’s decomposed bones
in the soil of Stonehenge
the cities of Copenhagen
streets of Sweden
and German parks
This is the final stop of my ancestral pilgrimage
A journey of searching for what I’m made of
who I’m made of
and who made me
I couldn’t go home until I met Mevlâna
After hours of sitting at his tomb turning in ecstasy
I find a place in the rose garden outside
Gazing up at minarets
Inhaling the smell of pink roses that match my dress
This body is made from flesh and bone
This heart is made from the fragrance of love
I reach down and place one rose petal in my tin
Mevlâna is my ancestor too
The one who will always perfume my heart
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