One of the 20 work-in-progress drafts currently sitting in my Substack is one on the winding lineage of kebbeh—a subject I could write about for days, let alone use as an excuse to eat kebbeh for breakfast, lunch and dinner in the name of R&D. We're not getting to that today.
What we are getting to is this: the beginning of spring means loquat season, and I cannot let it pass without sharing one of my most original and most beloved recipes with you.
Growing up, I never really thought anything could compare with the traditional lamb kebbeh pie—what we call kebbeh bel sayneeyeh, or kebbeh in a baking tray. It felt untouchable. The gold standard. But as I became a professional cook and then a chef, I began experimenting, letting creative curiosity lead the way.
I created Kebbeh bil Akedene in May 2017. It was one of the last recipes I worked on before closing out my manuscript and sending it off to the publisher. By that point, I had already been experimenting with seasonal fruit additions—the now famous and widely copied sour cherry, mahlab and arak flambé kebbeh, which first featured at my Beirut Supper Clubs and then at my Dubai delivery concept DAYMA; and the kammouniyé, apple and rose kebbeh, which makes its first appearance each year on the cusp of apple harvest, between September and October.
So, let’s give akedene a try, I thought one May morning. After all, loquats are perfectly juicy, floral-sweet stone fruit—made for this.
This version takes kebbeh to another dimension, and I assure you I’m not being biased. Kebbeh bil Akedene is certainly one of my top renditions. The contrast is electric: a crisp, flavourful bulgur and fatty meat crust, then—bite—bright, tart loquat juice, caramelised onions, and sumac cutting through all that richness.
This is what happens when you cook seasonally, when you trust your instincts, and when you’re willing to break the rules a little. This isn’t a year-round dish. It’s a moment. An edible reminder that some of the best cooking happens when you work with what’s in season, not against it.
Over the years, I’ve demonstrated this recipe on national television—both in the UK on Sunday Kitchen:
And in Lebanon on LBC, in Arabic:
Both clips capture different elements and techniques—how to layer, score, and everything in between.
And then there’s this quick video I made ad-hoc yesterday, from home, with whatever was available. It belongs to a series I keep joking I’ll officially release one day: Hayda al Mawjoud—this is what’s available—a love letter to improvisation and necessity, especially in these times.
So, and without further ado- Get your hands on loquats. Now. Check farmers’ markets, West Asian grocers, or orchards if you’re lucky enough to have access. They won’t last long.
The recipe might appear lengthy, but once you’ve made this a few times, you’ll be ready to do it blindfolded.
A Note of Gratitude
To my newest paid subscribers and those who have upgraded their subscription to Founding Members — which genuinely brings tears to my eyes — welcome, and thank you for showing my work such appreciation. This little Substack is growing into something I’m genuinely proud of, and your support — whether a like, a comment, a share, feedback, or yes, a monetary contribution — is what keeps these drafts moving from 20 to one. I don’t take it lightly. More soon.
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