When Only a Doughnut Will Do

Fried dough really is that girl. I’ve been fortunate enough to have enjoyed all manor of doughnuts over the last couple of weeks, all of them delightfully squidgy and just sweet enough and doughy enough without being sickly.

There were trays of hot puff puff at my mum’s 60th birthday party - bouncy, yeasted balls with the perfect level of chew and ever so lightly sweetened, allowing you to eat at least 6 in a row without realising. Also present on the table were Nigerian buns, the denser, more cakey cousins to puff puff. Equally as moreish and more similar to an old fashioned sour cream doughnut, texture wise.

Continuing on in my doughnut explorations, I made a quick trip to Ayres Bakery in Nunhead. It’s a traditional, old school British bakery that’s been going since the 50’s. The glass cases hold everything from gingerbread men, flapjacks and hot sausage rolls, to carrot cake, Chelsea buns and of course, fresh doughnuts. All the classics were present - sugared rings, raspberry jam, custard and sprinkles. No matcha, miso or cardamom in sight. Are they the best doughnuts you’ll ever eat? No…but they’re not trying to be. They are simple and honest and joyful to eat. Incredibly light and gently fried to a pale golden brown that tricky to replicate at home. The jam wasn’t fancy but exactly what I wanted at that moment; sweet, gooey and a little artificial. And at just under £2 each, you really can’t go wrong.

Given all my doughnut love, it only felt right to share a recipe for one this week. I’ve gone for the quickest, easiest ones you can make - little fluffy ricotta doughnuts that don’t require any yeast or kneading and come together from start to finish in about 45 minutes. If however, you’re after something more traditional, my sugar ring doughnuts would be a great option as well as these strawberry and custard guys.

Enjoy!

Benjamina x

At first glance, the feta might sound out of place, but stay with me! Feta in desserts isn’t that uncommon and makes lots of sense. It brings a creamy saltiness that works rather well with sweeter things. Georgina Haydens’ feta, cherry & white chocolate cookies are a delight, as is the feta and honey cheesecake by Honey & Co.

serves 6-8

1. Add the ricotta, eggs, vanilla bean paste and sugar to a bowl and whisk gently util smooth.

2. Add the flour, baking powder and salt and stir until you have a thickened batter. It doesn’t need to be perfectly smooth, a few lumps are fine.

3. Crumble the feta on top and gently fold it in into the batter and set to one side.

4. Add the oil to a heavy based saucepan, making sure it comes up at least 2 inches high. Heat to about 170c.

5. Use two teaspoons to scoop small balls of batter into the hot oil. Cook for 2-3 minutes until they’re puffy and well browned. Keep an eye on the temperature of the oil and turn it down if the doughnuts brown too quickly.

6. Remove them with a slotted spoon and place on a paper towel lined plate.

7. Repeat with the rest of the batter.

8. Add the sugar and lemon zest to a shallow bowl and use your fingertips to rub in the zest until fragrant.

9. Toss the doughnuts in the sugar well to coat before serving.

10. Serve them plain or with some lightly whipped cream drizzled with honey.