Tomato Tart

The flavors of this tart head toward pizza, but pizza, at least as it originated in Naples, is bread with a garnish, and this summer tart is definitely pastry. The butter in the crust and the crust’s tender crispness set it apart; it’s not a meal but a first course or part of a mix of things. Happily, in contrast to so many pies and tarts, you get that crisp crust without prebaking. I’ve specified a finicky ½-cm (³⁄₁₆-inch) thickness for the slices of tomato. You don’t have to be that precise, but too-thick tomato weighs down the crust so it doesn’t cook fully. Ultra-ripe red tomatoes are right for this tart and are perhaps especially American. (Less ripe and juicy, even partly green tomatoes are preferred for salads, for instance, in a range of southern European places.) If you don’t have true (bunching) shallots, a new onion may be a better option. As to the herb, oregano is very good, but better still are the wild Greek thyme flowers from Daphnis and Chloe (source of top-quality herbs, as I’ve written before). The refinement of Parmigiano-Reggiano suits the tart, although you could use another firm aged cheese, such as Gruyère.

dough to make one 11-inch (28-cm) flaky crust

pinches of dried oregano

black pepper

1 or 2 tomatoes, depending on their size, sliced about ½-cm (³⁄₁₆-in) thick

1 or 2 very young summer squash, sliced about ½-cm (³⁄₁₆-in) thick, optional

salt

about 20 gr true shallots, finely chopped

Parmigiano-Reggiano

excellent, fresh-tasting olive oil

Heat the oven to 200° C (400° F). If the dough has been thoroughly chilled, allow it to warm partway to room temperature, so it won’t crack under the pressure of the rolling pin. Roll it out somewhat thin, so in the oven it will become crisp all the way through, and fit it to an 11-inch (28‑cm) shallow steel tart mold with a removable bottom. If there’s any danger the dough is a little tough (elastic), refrigerate or freeze it for an hour or more.

Rub the dried herb between your fingers, scattering it over the pastry. Add a grinding of black pepper. Next arrange the tomatoes and the squash, if you have it. Season lightly with salt, scatter the chopped shallots on top, grate Parmigiano over that, and add generous threads of olive oil. Bake until the crust is golden brown and the vegetables and cheese begin to color — about 45 minutes. Serves 4 to 6 as a first course.

Subscribe now