Buying a Chanel Jacket

Shopping used to be one of my favorite pastimes, but most of that enthusiasm has faded over the years. The excitement returns, though, when I’m looking for something special, an investment piece I’ve put thought into and know I’ll treasure for years. Chanel clothing gives me that feeling again.

I started collecting Chanel jackets several years ago. They felt like a more interesting purchase than adding another bag to my collection. You rarely see the same Chanel jacket worn on several women, which makes it feel personal. My first jacket was vintage, and it felt like I struck gold when I snapped it up on Kern1 (they used to sell first come, first served, which was a challenge given they’re based in Europe). I learned a few things from that purchase: sizing, fit, and perhaps most importantly, the fabric. The shape of the jacket I bought had a slight dropped shoulder, which at the time was not what I wanted in a Chanel jacket. The silhouette had a bit of swing that I didn’t recognize from the listing details. But the fabric was what kept me from wearing it more than once. It was a heavy wool with a yarn-like trim that felt more appropriate in a winter setting than any given day in California. I eventually sold it on Vestiaire with no loss (the beauty of Chanel). The lessons learned made me a keener shopper for pre-owned, and when new listings pop up, I read every detail before I add to cart.

In-store purchases are a much better experience. Trying the jackets on, getting a feel for the fit and how they fall, feeling the hand of the fabric and seeing the details up close makes for a very tempting situation, especially when all the pieces fall into place. With each purchase, I’ve gained a little more knowledge and have been able to narrow my focus on what I like.

The most important consideration is choosing a jacket I’ll actually wear, not just admire on a hanger. I look for something suited to California’s mild climate and will pass on anything too formal. I’ve learned that a Chanel jacket, or any fitted, tailored piece like it, looks best on me with something casual underneath. Trousers make it feel buttoned up, even aging. Jeans or khakis keep it true to my style.

I’m not a seasonal Chanel shopper with a wishlist of items; I prefer to occasionally visit a boutique to see what’s available at the moment. Just like with handbags, many exceptional pieces are kept off the floor, so I’ll look around first and then ask what else they have in my size. There’s a bit of excitement in seeing what hidden gems are brought to the fitting room.

The resurgence in Chanel’s popularity since Matthieu Blazy’s appointment as artistic director feels warranted. There’s a freshness to what he’s doing that honors the codes of the house without feeling bound by them. The signatures are all there, but the way they’re styled and worn feels approachable, more relaxed and very much of the moment. It’s recognizably Chanel, now seen through a new lens. Perhaps that’s what has reinvigorated my own interest, particularly in pre-owned. With the price of new pieces continuing to climb, I’ve found myself shopping the older collections more than ever and discovering pieces that feel every bit as current today.

I realize there can be some hesitation around buying pre-owned, particularly when it comes to authenticity, but I’ve only had good experiences. I’ve purchased from Kern1, which specializes exclusively in Chanel, HEWI (Hardly Ever Worn It), 1stDibs, The RealReal, and ReSee, and have been very pleased with all of them.

Below are a few jackets I’ve owned over the years, along with some thoughts on why they did or didn’t work for me.

This is probably my all-time favorite shape. The collarless cardigan style with a high armhole is the best fit for me. I was initially attracted to the color, but the lightweight fabric was an even bigger draw. I also like the simplicity of the silver buttons, a nice change from the gold on many of my other jackets. The color and texture look great with jeans and are especially interesting with khaki. I’ve also worn this casually with white poplin or linen pants.

This is my only long Chanel jacket and the fabric is more like a knit, although I treat it as a jacket. I wear it with the buttons at the chest and waist fastened, leaving the rest undone at the top and bottom. It needs that bit of shape, especially with the longer length. I pair it most often with jeans, but a casual pant has worked too. The buttons are especially beautiful, dark charcoal wood with hammered silver detailing.

I only wore this jacket a couple of times before realizing it never really felt like me. The purple tweed was surprisingly flat and lacked the texture and dimension that usually makes a Chanel jacket so interesting. The faceted stone buttons didn’t suit my style either. It’s one of several Chanel jackets I’ve bought and eventually sold over the years, and fortunately, never at a loss.

Buttons are one of the details I pay close attention to on a Chanel jacket. The craftsmanship, interesting materials and designs that change from season to season make them an important part of the overall design. They often tell a story through the motifs, while the details help give each piece its character.

I rarely shop at home and would rather take the time when traveling. If I find something, it becomes a memory from the trip rather than simply another purchase. I bought this jacket on a trip to New York.

I always browse with an open mind and am often surprised by what I settle on. I’ll ask what’s available in my size and see what the sales associate brings out. This shape, with a cropped sleeve and an edge-to-edge closure, has become one of my favorite styles. I also like the subtle use of buttons.

KERN1 elevates the pre-owned shopping experience like no other. The jackets are beautifully packaged, always with a lovely note included about the history of the piece. I selected this one for its boxy, loose shape and the soft wool crepe fabric. Despite the wide grosgrain trim, it still feels casual on. The gold coin buttons with loop closures are a beautiful finishing detail.

A classic collarless, cardigan-style jacket in black was the hardest for me to track down. They’re often accounted for well before they reach the stores. Initially, I hesitated because of the metallic thread, concerned it might feel too dressy, but I’ve ended up loving it. I am usually a 38 and had to have this one slightly tailored.

Before shopping these or any resale sites, I’d recommend a visit to a Chanel boutique to confirm your size and get a sense of the fits you like. My complete edit of pre-owned Chanel jackets is linked at the bottom of the post, with a few favorites below. Since most are one-of-a-kind, availability can change quickly.

SHOP ALL PRE-OWNED CHANEL