Vol. 2

As I’m sure not a single person has said this to you yet--Happy 2024! Last year was one full of record restaurant closures in Los Angeles :( including Animal, Eszett, Konbi(s), and the chaotic reality TV star that was Pump. Whilst we mourn their departures, we can only strive to support the places we hope will continue to operate for years to come. We can also celebrate the newcomers! 

Kool (Tijuana): IYKYK--crossing the US/Mexico border on foot couldn’t be easier. Four of us took the trolley down to San Ysidro, walked across, then taxied straight to Telefónica Gastro Park. Cheap and delicious eats & drinks a-plenty. We then went to visit my friend Ivan at his (very successful!!) brewery Cervecería Insurgente. He recommended a spot nearby for dinner named Kool (lolz), so we decided to check it out. 

The first thing we noticed was that (other than two people at the bar) the beautiful, well-appointed and fully-staffed dining room was EMPTY. At 8pm on a Wednesday (whereas Insurgente was bustling). We almost bailed, but both Ivan and Eater recommended it. Thankfully we didn’t, as we had an outstanding meal there. Fantastic cocktails, a great bottle of wine, and four really amazing dishes: Elote Asado, Coliflor Gratinada, Costilla de Puerco, and the Ribeye. It was an unexpectedly incredible meal, although the pricing (which was very fair!) was higher than the usual cheap-for-Americans meal in TJ. Zero regrets, and I can’t wait to take another trip to Baja ASAP. 

Elvira (SD): May I say how great it is to have a “nicer” restaurant within walking distance of my mom’s house? Replacing Bo-Beau, new girl in town Elvira is a cheery Roman sister restaurant to the popular Cesarina. Our party of 6 was seated in the most precious little alcove, which felt like a private dining room without the fee. Our Italian-accented server recommended a caper-infused gin, which led to the best martini I’ve had in a long, long time. The antipasti plate was a wonderfully massive platter of meat + cheese, and the pizzas were great, if a little doughy for my taste, but don’t let your server talk you into ordering an extra one. Thursday’s special was gnocchi--a pillowy, perfect dish and a must order. Finished off with multiple pour-it-yourself affogatos, we had a wonderful meal there and I’d absolutely return. 

Little Fish (LA): Run, don’t walk, seriously. Little Fish (another success story of LA’s pop-up-to-brick-and-mortar pipeline) shares an entrance with Dada Market: a typical cute-but-overpriced fancy foods market. Don’t get distracted, you’re here for the sammy. A friend and I opted to share the sprouting cauliflower (really delicious) but each get our own sandwiches--necessary. Normally I’m a monster and discard most of the bread when eating sandwiches, but I left no crumbs with this one. An absolutely perfect creation. The fish filet was golden brown, crisp yet juicy and tender inside, paired with a holy trinity of Kewpie mayo, pickles, and American cheese, then encased in a soft potato bun. I paused no less than three times to exclaim how incredible it was. At $17 it’s no bargain, but think of it as a treat yourself lunch (or honestly, snack). 

Honorable Mentions:

• Bica (SD) - A coffee shop that does BYOB tapas dinners. While they were out of many dishes before 7pm, someone was handing out beers to those waiting in line, and later when I went back to order more snacks, one of the chefs just handed me two free plates of jamón & Manchego and sent me on my way. It was wonderfully chaotic, with open seating on the patio and a great DJ--a real sense of cool community. Go early and with an open mind. I’ve heard their regular breakfast food is great too.

• Melody // Metztli (LA) - Another day, another pop-up darling. I’ve frequented Melody many times over the years: the wines, vibe, and food are always great (happy hour pricing til 7pm--unheard of!) in this low-lit bungalow. They used to host rotating chefs, but Metztli seems to now be a permanent fixture. A husband & wife duo are churning out delicious small plates, most of which utilize incredible, handmade blue corn tortillas. Highlights were the Brussels Sprouts Esquites and the Skirt Steak Quesadilla. Also, when is the last time you’ve seen “gourmet” tacos anywhere for a mere $3.50?? A few items were served with Miso Salsa Macha and Yuzu Kosho Crema, a combo that I’m now concerned I cannot live without. 

• Tribute Pizza (SD) - If you’ve been to San Diego but haven’t eaten here, what are you doing with your life? Each pizza is a tribute to another pizzeria, and all of them are outstanding. Cocktails are fun, creative and strong, and don’t skip the kale caesar or the market wood roasted veg (always add Manchego). Personal faves include Bees Mode and Brooklyn’s Best with everything bagel crust. My only advice is don’t be tempted by the Grandma style crust--there are so many other things to enjoy on the menu that your stomach just doesn’t have the real estate for all that dough. 

• It’s Raw Poke Shop (SD) - Best poke I’ve had outside Hawaii. Incredibly fresh and consistent (not to mention a mere 3 minute walk from my mom’s house), I frequent this tiny shop at least once per trip to SD. It’s always crowded, but you can call ahead to skip the line when you pick up. The Furikake Ahi is my favorite, and the Mac Salad is made with angel hair pasta, an A+ move. 

While I refuse to participate in Dry January, the beginning of the year is spent trying to offset December’s haze of drinks, cheese, and a distinct absence of vegetables. Enter: Salad Freak. One of my favorite cookbooks and frankly, the book I’m upset that I didn’t write myself. Broken up by seasons, Jess Damuck’s recipes are easy, vegetable-forward and, most of all, not sad. I’ve already made this Raw & Roasted Caesar Brussels Sprouts twice (add chicken thighs for a heartier meal). 

Drew and I hosted a game night last weekend, which included velour sweatsuits and this Eggplant Involtini, for which I made fresh ricotta (relax, I used Rao’s sauce). I also snuck in some prosciutto--it was delicious and we enjoyed the leftovers for multiple days. 

Even in LA, it’s soup szn. 

It’s rare that I have a solid month and a half in LA with no weekend trips planned, so the city feels like my oyster right now (although, maybe avoid oysters for a bit). I plan on finally trying Dunsmoor, and possibly checking out the long-awaited return of Meals by Genet. It appears I may have to sell an organ to get a reservation at La Dolce Vita, so maybe I’ll try neighborhood newcomer Ètra. 

I hope that 2024 brings you good health, great joy, and your best year of eating yet. 

xo