Vol. 1

Welcome to Elbows on the Table, an approachable and honest guide to dining in Los Angeles and beyond, with some recipes and travel mixed in. If you’re like me, life revolves around food and the experiences that come with it. In today’s era of food influencers and social media hype, you don’t always know if that $279 wagyu filet with gold flakes is worth it (definitely not), or if you should bother waiting 45 minutes at that tiny aperitivo bar (probably yes). I love getting dressed up for a Michelin-starred dinner, but I also love eating takeout on the couch in my sweats, and this newsletter has room for all of that and everything in between. 

First up is Budonoki, a newcomer to Virgil Village. This modern Izakaya grew into a brick-and-mortar after becoming a darling of LA’s pop-up scene and serves Japanese-leaning plates with Vietnamese and Thai influences. Whatever it is, it all SLAPS. I’ve been twice in two weeks, once with 2 others and again as a party of 8. My personal highlights are “Budo-Gnocchi”, Grilled Pork Jowl, Curry Pan, and Wagyu Zabuton (but I could go on, the entire menu is really incredible). Drinks are mostly sake and beer but there are a few cocktails, including one served in an achingly adorable mug. The lighting is dim, the music is millennial throwbacks, and the service is friendly and prompt. I strongly recommend a reservation as it’s a popular spot, and I hope these guys are in business for a long time. 13/10 can’t wait to return. 

Second is Tonchin, a ramen-and-more spot with 150 locations in Japan, 2 in NYC and finally one in LA (walking distance from my apartment--a rarity). I’ve been a few times since it opened, but this past weekend really brought it home how lovely this spot is. I had the best cocktail I’ve had in months (JAPANESE 75: suntory roku gin, elderflower, lemon, fresh celery & red shiso, prosecco) and the bar team was so friendly and wonderful (Rule #37: always sit at the bar if you can). Our new bartender friend sneakily comped all of our drinks, which was honestly wild and way too kind. (Rule #4: TIP WELL). The ramen is rich and delicious, the Tonchin Salad is simple but the dressing complex, and the smaller plates and bites are great (still thinking about the wings). It’s also one of very few spots in Larchmont with a full bar, a major plus. I already have a reservation for this Wednesday’s Jazz Night. 

Last is Dan Tana’s, an almost 60-year-old LA establishment that (sad!) severely disappointed on a busy Saturday night in early December (I did have a great time there last summer, so read with that in mind). Our party of 4 was seated 45 minutes late, with apps arriving a full hour after that, but not before we choked down room temp martinis, gnashing briny olives between our starving teeth. Fried Ravioli were a welcome treat, but Clams Casino were barely edible. Chicken Marsala was a surprise hit, as well as the single cannoli we had for dessert. Our round of espresso martinis was so awful we sent them back (a rare move). I’d been looking forward to this spendy holiday dinner for months, and the entire experience fell dramatically short. I had 2 friends dining at the bar that night, and they overheard the lone bartender exclaim such niceties as “Not another fuckin’ martini” and “I wanna fuckin’ die”. Yikes. Was it the worst meal I’ve ever had? No, but when you’re paying $45 for Chicken Parm, you expect that $20+ martini to be ice-cold. (FWIW - the same group did our ‘22 holiday dinner at Rao’s and it was PERFECT, so spend your hard-earned dollars there instead). 

Other places I’ve enjoyed recently are:

• Quixote (San Diego) - a total scene & moody vibe, but fantastic drinks and really great food. Reservation is a must. Arrive early to wander around the recently renovated Lafayette Hotel in awe, she’s a stunner. After, grab drinks and play free skee-ball in the bar across the hallway.

• Good Clean Fun - a wine bar in DTLA (fell in love with this orange wine). 

• Pine & Crane - always delicious, and they execute to-go perfectly. 

• Great White (Larchmont) - when they first opened in my neighborhood I wasn’t impressed with the food, but over the years it’s improved significantly. Also typically a scene, they’ve got great all-day foods (partial to the Mushroom Fries and whatever Caesar variation they have) and a “Tremendous Burger” (perfect for a hangover lunch). Decent beer/wine/kombucha selection as well. A nice neighborhood staple that’s an aesthetic treat. 

For me, December means squeezing in more weeknight outings than usual and therefore less cooking at home, however I did make a couple of standout recipes. My friend Karlee’s Braised Cabbage with Chorizo and White Beans (I added sliced white onions to sauté, and finished with sherry vin) was cozy and delicious (subscribe to her Substack for great recipes!), and Carolina Gelen’s Pickle Latkes were a perfectly tangy twist on that crispy, carby, crunchy treat. I am also blessed enough to be included in my friend Lindsey’s Tamalada every year, where we spend all day eating her spicy pozole, drinking nice tequila, and assembling hundreds of tamales. It’s the perfect start to the holiday season, along with cookie decorating!

I’ll be home in San Diego for the holidays, which means I’ll frequent my usual haunts like It’s Raw Poke Shop and Tribute Pizza. Also in the works are a day trip to Tijuana, a new Italian spot, and a whole lotta Honey Baked Ham (my first real love). 

I hope this holiday season brings you delicious food with people you love, plenty of rest, and at least one hard-earned hangover. ‘Tis the damn season. 

xo