There he was, hunched over by the Leh - Batalik highway near Biamah. Picking apricots, separating fresh fruit from spoilt. Perfectly still but for his slow, precise hand movements. He would have stayed engrossed in his work had he not noticed me taking pictures.
When he turned to look at me, I saw bloodshot eyes, an immensely wrinkled face and a fragile body. He rose and came towards my car, mumbling incoherently, drooling. My attempts to converse were futile; he was mentally challenged it seems. And I doubt if he knew Hindi or English. He promptly took the ten rupees I held out and went back to his work.
Why was he collecting apricots? Was that all he did all day? Was he more aware of his surroundings than I thought he was?
From his fair complexion and features, I figured he was a Brokpa (or Drokpa), member of a pure Aryan race settled around Dha and Hanu villages, close to where I came upon him. Some say the original Brokpas came with the invading Greek armies of Alexander. They converted to Buddhism but retained their socio-cultural values. Such as keeping their race pure by only allowing marriages within their community.
Sadly, I will never know who the ‘Apricot Man’ really was.
This post is featured in Ajay Jain’s book POSTCARDS FROM LADAKH, a travelogue and memory frozen in time circa 2009. Click here to order a copy for yourself and as a gift for others. Images also available as numbered prints in all sizes. All sizes, on archival paper or canvas. Delivered globally. Send enquires to stories@ajayjain.com.
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