No Needles in the Haystick Around Pang | Ladakh

Pang’s landscape is dotted with these gigantic needles, things the giant’s wife would stitch with. These conical rock structures could well be colossal anthills, if only ants could survive the harsh climate. I asked geologists in Leh but no one is sure of the origins of these odd obelisks.

A glitter in a cave high up across the valley intrigued me too. I gazed at it through my zoom lens. Was it an illusion or was it a shrine? With holy men meditating for decades? The place seemed inaccessible, even for nimble mountain goats, but faith makes people do amazing things.

I will always remember Pang for another reason too. Here, at 4767 metres (15640 feet), the Army has its ‘highest transit camp’, offering first aid to civilians. Oxygen, tablets and valuable advice from the doctor here cured me of my altitude sickness; I may not have made it to Leh otherwise. The Army would come to my rescue a few more times during my Ladakh sojourns.

Pang is also the last place before Upshi to grab hot grub. You don’t want to roast an illegally hunted Kiang (Asiatic ass)!

This post is featured in Ajay Jain’s book POSTCARDS FROM LADAKH, a travelogue and memory frozen in time circa 2009. Click here to order a copy for yourself and as a gift for others. Images also available as numbered prints in all sizes. All sizes, on archival paper or canvas. Delivered globally. Send enquires to stories@ajayjain.com.