What to cook and eat in June

Welcome to the June edition of Seasonal, our yearlong celebration of eating in harmony with the rhythms of the land.

There’s a moment in early summer when the markets finally tip into abundance - this week’s newsletter reflects this plentiful supply.

For those readers who are new to A Good Table, I suggest you approach this seasonal edition as you would reading a magazine or newspaper supplement — a bumper issue, all new recipes, all in one place. There is much to look forward to: an old English Jumbleberry Jam recipe; a decadent peach and berry jam butter cake eaten warm with almond custard; and a moreish tomato and savory cheese frangipane tart that will see you through lazy lunches, picnics and last-minute suppers alike. Plus, we have a June produce guide and flavor pairings to help you cook more creatively throughout the month. Make yourself a cuppa tea, or something stronger, and settle in.

This past winter, and much of early spring, I’ve been counterproductively treating every day like a race. It wasn’t until last week, standing in a sun-drenched field in Devon, that I finally allowed myself to stop. In that moment, without phones, deadlines or dread, I realized that my mind was sore from overthinking. With just a few honey bees for company and the distant view of cows grazing in the meadows, I experienced the pleasure of stillness.

Since then, I’ve been consciously trying to make more room for impractical pleasure. If you’ve just read my recipe for elderflower cordial and fritters, you’ll know exactly what I mean. I’ve been seeking out small rituals and pursuits that bring joy, with no productive objective attached to them. I think the start of summer is an appropriate time to remind ourselves that despite the constant barrage of frightening news, life can still be unexpectedly wonderful. This is what the June edition is about - joy.

Whether it’s a combination of taking time out in new surroundings and/or the fact that the local market is absolutely bursting at the seams, but culinary inspiration has returned, and I’ve been cooking up a storm in the kitchen this week. Admittedly, the washing-up situation has been alarming, however, it does mean there are plenty of delicious recipes for you to make. Here are my flavor pairing picks for the month.

Peach and cheese

Introducing my peach and berry jam butter cake, this one is really special. Peaches and cheese are a gloriously natural combination (think peaches with ricotta, peaches with mascarpone) and this cake leans into that tart, creamy pairing. The method for the cake feels a little odd at first — you make the sponge, whisk up an almondy cheesecake layer and pour it straight on top, then scatter over berries and jam. But trust the process here. As the cake bakes, the cheesecake layer sinks into the sponge, creating something so decadent, so utterly delicious and gooey, you really have to make it to understand how darn good it is. Imagine, part cheesecake, part traditional English warm pudding. Full recipe below.

For another June peach recipe try my roasted amaretti peaches.

Tomato and almond

Have you ever heard of savory frangipane? No? To be honest, I hadn’t either! But the other day I had a brainwave: how good would a combination of savory almond, herbs and cheese taste?

As I considered the idea, I realized that I would need an ingredient that would balance the sweet and savory elements, and since tomatoes are technically a fruit, there was my answer. A crisp pastry base is layered with a herby almond frangipane, topped with sweet juicy tomatoes and creamy goat's cheese, then baked until golden and fragrant. Full recipe below, keep reading.

Berries and vanilla

Summer berries and vanilla are a natural pairing — the floral warmth of vanilla softens their tartness and draws out their sweetness, which is exactly why this combo finds its way into my Jumbleberry Jam.

Inspired by the age-old British tradition of making the most of whatever the hedgerows and kitchen garden offer, this recipe features: strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries. Tumbled together with vanilla and a few other secret additions, this combination produces a rich, jewel-colored preserve that is fragrant and deeply flavored in a way no single-fruit jam could ever hope to be. I put it on everything - toast, yogurt and my peach and berry jam cake! Full recipe below.

Radish and Beef

Radishes are one of my favorite vegetables — peppery, crisp and super refreshing, they make the perfect palate cleanser alongside rich beef or anything just off the bbq.

Try them with my bavette steak and a French-leaning chimichurri-style sauce, or what I’m calling a bistro-style verde sauce. Sounds fancy, doesn’t it? In reality, it’s somewhere between salsa verde and chimichurri, with a tarragon and Dijon kick.

Alongside comes an addictive tangy white bean salad and the most outrageously cheesy roasted garlic baguette. In short, my idea of the perfect summer meal.

Raspberries (or Strawberries) & Pistachio

Here’s an idea: try tumbling fresh raspberries over a scoop of pistachio ice cream. Alternatively, fold chopped pistachios into whipped cream and dollop onto a raspberry Pavlova for a flavor that conjures images of an old French patisserie.

Strawberries and pistachios are also a wonderful and classic combination, see here for my strawberries and cream pistachio cake (pictured above).

Tomato and Mozzarella

Oh, just look at that cheese pull! Some flavor pairings become classics for a reason, for example, sweet tomatoes and milky mozzarella. When featured in a rich sauce, tomatoes bring brightness and acidity, while bite-sized pieces of mozzarella scattered on top, melt into creamy puddles that somehow make everything feel a little more comforting. The base could be pasta, pizza, or even a jacket potato.

Try my Gnocchi alla Sorrentina, a southern Italian classic of pillowy gnocchi baked in rich tomato sauce with bubbling mozzarella and plenty of Parmesan. It’s the sort of dish that demands a hunk of bread for mopping up the sauce and, more often than not, a second helping.

Strawberries & Balsamic

Keep an open mind with this pairing. When strawberries are at their ripest, I like to slice them and allow them to rest for a while together with a splash of good balsamic and a pinch of sugar — just enough to draw out their juices and turn them syrupy. Sometimes I spoon the whole lot over vanilla ice cream, but more often than not I eat them straight from the bowl with my fingers, savoring their aromatic fragrance until the last sweet, tart drop.

Dark Cherries & 70% Chocolate

There’s something absolutely decadent about dark cherries dipped in proper dark chocolate — 70% or higher. The high cocoa content results in a clean snap that allows the fruit’s sweetness to burst through. I like to keep a plate of these beauties in the fridge on hot days: cold, glossy and almost too pretty to eat.

Zucchini & Lemon

Zucchini prepared as shoestring fries is one of my favorite ways to enjoy this summer vegetable. To make this tasty, moreish dish, start by trimming and finely slicing 3-4 small to medium zucchinis into thin shoestring strips/pieces. (You can also use a mandoline or food processor.) Heat vegetable oil in a pot, then dunk the zucchini in tempura batter and fry until lightly golden. Serve piping hot with lemon wedges, a lovely saffron aioli or a creme fraiche and dill dip.

For a really easy starter or lunch, try my shaved zucchini salad.

Blueberries and Almonds

This is one of my favorite pairings - soft, jammy fruit balanced against the sweet, marzipan-like nuttiness of almonds. It is irresistible. You’ll see exactly why in my Berry Almond Chantilly Cake, which uses almond extract in both the sponge and the cream. A little goes a long way.

The full detailed recipes are below + downloadable PDFs, and prep videos to help you seamlessly enjoy June cooking.

Plus, I’d love to know what you are all cooking this month? Don’t hesitate to share photos in the group chat!

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