Somm Talk: Sushmita Bomzon

As a child growing up in Darjeeling, Sushmita Bomzon was no stranger to the world of booze. She saw first hand, family and friends brewing tongba, a make-it-yourself, millet-based drink that’s commonly found in Nepal, Sikkim and Darjeeling. “I’ve seen distillation being done at home so it was never a foreign concept to me,” she said. It wasn’t surprising, then, that Bomzon decided to pursue a career in the world of wines while studying hotel management as an undergrad. Soon after she graduated, Bomzon worked in the food-n-beverage departments of several hotels in India and abroad before she acquired a Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET) certification in wines during her stint at the Raffles Hotel in Dubai.

In 2024, Bomzon returned to India after a two-year stint in the gulf and is now the sommelier at Captain’s Cellar, one of the few dedicated wine bars in Delhi, at the Taj Mansingh Hotel. What sets the bar apart is its investment in the Enomatic and Coravin wine preservation systems, which allows the Cellar to serve 47 wines by the glass and even offer 15 ml tasting pours. That way, the bar doesn’t run the risk of sacrificing an entire bottle and customers get the option of tasting a wine before committing to a bottle.

In a wide-ranging conversation, Bomzon talks to me about her journey as a sommelier, working in a “man’s world”, the bemused reactions she gets when she talks about her job and the things that wine drinkers do which irritate her.

How did you get into the world of wines?

I was studying mathematics in college but in my second year I switched to hotel management. I’ve waited tables, worked as a barista and been a mixologist but I found these roles very limiting. Wine, on the other hand, seemed like a challenge worth taking up so I pursued the WSET courses and from then on, there was no looking back.

When you tell people you’re a sommelier, how do they react? What does a sommelier do?

Well, my parents do not understand what I do. Others say they’ve never met someone who is a sommelier and are curious to know more about my job. Being a sommelier isn’t just about selling the wine on the [restaurant] floor. One also has to maintain the inventory, ensure that wines are stored properly, that bottles reach the hotel in time and keep up with market trends.

The worlds of wines and food-n-beverages in general are male-dominated. When you started out, were you nervous about how you’d do?

Yes, indeed. When I started out, I didn’t have a [family] background in the field. Plus, we had very few sommeliers who would keep things to themselves. They’d ask me to go away and say that they’ll tell me later but never did. But I was resilient and curious and would read about the subject.

What are some the traits that aspiring sommeliers should possess?

They should be humble, passionate and curious about the subject. Don’t think you know it all because it’s an entire journey. Being a sommelier is a huge responsibility; you need to be able to stay on top of trends, identify underrated wines and not just get stuck on one type of wine or a particular producer. I also feel like sommeliers should help other aspirants on their journey; a lot of it is about mentorship and being there for upcoming sommeliers.

The one thing that wine drinkers do that irritates you?

Adding ice to wine. People order a glass, take forever to finish it and then the wine warms up so they add ice to it. You’re not supposed to do that! It’s heartbreaking to see!

A popular wine that you think is highly overrated and why?

The Chocolate Block (South Africa). It’s a decent wine but it lacks a certain uniqueness. Sometimes people, who don’t even like full-bodied wines, will order Chocolate Block because it’s the safest option.

A wine that you think is underrated and deserves more attention?

The Source Grenache Rosé from Sula. It’s a great afternoon drinking wine.

Five things that every wine lover should have in his/her bar at home?

Good glassware, good wine openers, carafes/decanters (because it can really open up the wine and reveal its true character), a Coravin wine preservation system and a wine chiller. [Editor’s Note: Check out my beginner’s guide to setting up a wine bar at home here].

Five wines on your wishlist that you want to drink…

Chateau Latour, Chateau Haut Brion, Paco and Alba Albariño, Domaene Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner and a Claire Valley-style Riesling.

A wine region in the world that’s underrated or doesn’t get due credit?

I’d say Chile and Argentina. People think of them as mass [wine] producers but there are certain winemakers who make excellent wines too.

Sommeliers you admire?

Kamal Malik, Gagan Sharma and Magandeep Singh

What should bars in India do to improve their wine service game?

I think the way wine is preserved is very, very important. Secondly, offer a wider variety of grapes. Every bar you go to, they give you a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and a very expensive Pinot Noir. I think they need to offer lesser known varietals like a Gruner Veltliner or a different style of a known varietal – like an off-dry Riesling.

Captain’s Cellar, Taj Mahal Hotel. Number One, Mansingh Road, New Delhi – 110011. Open everyday. Timings: 1pm-12.30am

Follow @aayushsoni and @partnerinwineindia on Instagram for social media updates.