We often debate whether to buy a wine with a cute animal on the label. But how about a wine that carries a fascinating (if probably fictional) story?
In the world of wine, as with many consumer goods, marketing is part of the game. A colorful label with an attention-getting image might stand out on the wine-shop shelf, grabbing the customer’s attention amid an array of more drab alternatives.
The effect of a good wine story may be a little harder to measure, but if a good story sticks in your memory, it might trigger a sale the next time you visit the wine store. The world of wine, of course, is full of stories.
There’s the Mosel’s Wehlener Sonnenuhr, named after the oversized sundial that sat high above the vineyard’s slopes to let the vineyard workers know when their shift was over.
Tuscany’s Black Rooster trademark came from the legend of a noisy bird whose early wake-up call gave the Florence rider a winning head start in a trophy race.
Bonny Doon’s California Rhône lookalike Cigare Volant took its name, according to producer Randall Grahm, from the mayor of Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s legendary ban on “flying cigar” UFOs from flying around the city’s vineyards.
![Preceding his bibulous bishop toward Rome, the cupbearer Martino marked taverns that served good wine with the sign "Est."](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Uz1H!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F5b6e015c-eddf-49ba-a82c-73b05602026f_750x551.jpeg "Preceding his bibulous bishop toward Rome, the cupbearer Martino marked taverns that served good wine with the sign "Est."")
A recommendation from my local wine shop guy recently put me back on the trail of another Italian wine with a story that I hadn’t thought about for years: A wine-loving German bishop on pilgrimage to Rome in 1111, unwilling to undertake the long journey without a good wine at the end of the day, sent a servant ahead to scout out the territory. If the servant found an inn with good wine, he was to chalk “Est” (“It is” in Latin) on the wall.
This system worked well, until they got to Montefiascone in Lazio, near Rome, where the wine was so delicious, the story goes, that the overexcited servant exulted “Est! Est!! Est!!!” The bishop agreed, loving the wine so much that he soon returned to Montefiascone, retired there, and spent the rest of his life enjoying the wine.
It’s a fun story, one that doesn’t seem entirely unlikely in its time and place, although I wouldn’t bet on its accuracy. But for what it’s worth, the Fiera del Vino, a celebration of the local wine – including many toasts to the bishop’s memory – continues to this day in Montefiascone.
That was just about 900 years ago, and the wine has surely changed, perhaps beyond recognition. I’d say my reliable wine-shop owner guided me fairly to a fresh, acidic white wine. It’s decent for summer sipping, and it comes with a fun story. It was a fair buy for $9.99, a price that’s close to the low bar for worthy wine these days. But I don’t think I could fairly give it more than one “Est.”
Many wines come with stories, legendary or true. Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Chianti’s Black Rooster, Cigare Volant, and Est! Est!! Est!!!, to name a few. Do you have a favorite wine story?
A clear, light straw-color blend of Italian white Trebbiano Toscano, Malvasia, and Roscetto grapes, Le Pòggere Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone opens with appetizing scents of lemon, lime, and pink grapefruit, with a distinct hint of green apple in the background. Crisp and fresh on the palate with a faint hint of prickly carbonation, its tart acidity bears a hint of dill pickle brine. Snappy, food-friendly citrus notes linger in the finish. 11.5% alcohol. U.S. importer: Heritage Collection Trinchero Family Estates, St. Helena, Calif. (Aug. 15, 2026)
FOOD MATCH: It’s a natural with seafood and mild fish, Italian cheeses, or dinner salads. It went well with a plate of plant-based Italian sausages seared with fresh garden peppers and onions.
WHEN TO DRINK: It’s not a candidate for cellaring, but there’s no hurry to drink it.
VALUE:
Wine-Searcher.com shows a $15 average U.S. retail price, but the average appears to be thrown off by a few higher-price vendors; it’s widely available from $10 through the lower teens, at which price it’s a decent value for everyday enjoyment with food.
WEB LINK:
Importer Trinchero Family Estates offers information about Famiglia Cotarella, the new generation at Falasco.
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Check prices and find vendors for Le Pòggere Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone on Wine-Searcher.com.
Read about the Est Est Est di Montefiascone wine region at this Wine-Searcher link.
Go to this Wine-Searcher link for more about Italy’s Lazio region, which includes Est Est Est.
Wine-Searcher.com is the place to go online if you want to find where to buy a particular wine that interests you. What’s more, Wine-Searcher.com offers so much more. It’s well worth a visit just to discover its many features, including its popular list of the world’s Top 10 Best Value Wines.
Want tips to still more good, inexpensive wines? Here are Wine-Searcher links to vendors and prices for a bunch more wines for $12 or less that I’ve told you about in recent years. In some cases, the prices may have risen since I reviewed them, but they should still be excellent bargains. Please tell us about your favorites!
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