Road Trip to Buffalo, New York

I recently did this fascinating story for Cabana Magazine on Dennis Maher’s home. It’s layered and intriguing and worth reading about - also the visuals are a feast. Speaking of Buffalo, New York.

Michael and I road tripped through there last year. Did I perhaps have food poisoning at the time? Oh perhaps. But I did manage to do a city guide for Essentialist - because sometimes a service piece is very useful and they asked me very nicely. So since you may have missed it, here it is again. Let’s hope this city is on your radar to explore. Not only do they deserve your tourism dollars, it’s far more interesting that all the same same same places that just about everyone is exploring…

48 Hours in Buffalo

Why Go:

Located on the eastern end of Lake Erie, at the head of the Niagara River on the Canadian border, Buffalo’s is the “Gateway to the West.” The city may be known for being the birthplace of Buffalo wings, its overly passionate sports teams, plus the very nearby Niagara Falls, but it is also a hub of art and culture. Spend any time here and you will notice how friendly locals are, hence the Buffalo’s nickname “the city of good neighbors.” Plus bars only have to shout “last call” at 4am, so the townsfolk are out late, ready to make friends.

Stay:

For fantastical Gothic style historic architecture: The Richardson Hotel

The luxury hotel, with just 88 rooms, is a National Historic Landmark set on more than 40 acres of historic green space designed by famed landscape architect, Frederick Law Olmsted. And yes you can do a guided tour of the entire estate. Since it was a former asylum, the rooms have giant windows, high ceilings and are a little quirky when it comes to shape and size. The Richardson bar is where to hang out to meet locals, and have a proper cocktail, or two. In terms of location, you’re right by Buffalo State University and within close proximity to the Buffalo Zoo, Shea’s Performing Arts Center, AKG Art Museum and Niagara Convention Center.

For something intimate and personal: The Mansion on Delaware

With just 28 rooms, the Mansion feels profoundly welcoming. In fact, they have superbly trained butlers to take care of your needs (the only ones in the city). The property itself is 19th century historic and a supreme illustration of Second Empire architecture. Many of the rooms have fantastical details from 15 foot ceilings, gorgeous three-sided bay windows, fun dormers and even eyebrow window heads. Sit in the lounge with its honor bar, and daydream about the heyday of Nickel City. In terms of location, you are right on Millionaires’ Row where wealthy industrialists and financiers built their fancy mansions during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Oh, you can of course rent the whole shebang, for 180 guests and call it a day.

Day 1: Start your day outside, then find some history

For that quintessential American diner breakfast, start your morning at Swan Street Diner for French toast and pancakes. To work off your hearty breakfast, Buffalo RiverWorks, an urban waterfront playground nestled within historic grain silos, is where you can zipline, rock climb, and kayak. Close by is also The Buffalo History Museum with many exhibitions including a walking tour of the Pan-American Exposition that took place over 100 years ago and a showcase on the impact of the historic Erie Canal. You can also board The Seneca Chief, a newly built replica of the 1825 packet boat that made the canal’s inaugural voyage. If you are craving some more knowledge, you can spend the afternoon getting your fill at the Buffalo Museum of Science. They have everything from bubbles, to biodiversity to dinosaurs to keep you occupied. The West Side Bazaar is where you want to end your day - bringing the world to your plate. It is the city’s first world marketplace featuring a food hall with a rotating mix of immigrant- and refugee-owned incubator kitchens serving authentic dishes from Burma, Ethiopia, Somalia, Peru, and beyond. And if you need ice cream after all that, pop in at Lake Effect, the small batch artisanal spot with interesting flavors like the rum-infused butterbeer.

Day 2: Another day outside, followed by art

Buffalo’s Outer Harbor, which includes the Wilkeson Pointe park with where to find scenic hiking trails, bicycle rentals, plus a public beach. You can pick up a coffee and a tuna melt en route at one of Public Espresso’s locations. A great way to leisure around in the afternoon, is a stop in the Michigan Street African American Heritage Corridor, where the Historic Colored Musicians Club & Jazz Museum offers live jazz and interactive exhibits celebrating its history, marked by the likes of Billie Holiday. Also visit the Michigan Street Baptist Church which was once a stop on the Underground Railroad and host to luminary speakers like Frederick Douglass. Lastly, don’t miss the Buffalo AKG Art Museum where they have for 150 years collected everything from Frida Kahlo to Claude Monet. If you’re peckish, they have a fast casual lunch spot Cornelia inside the Knox Building. But you could save yourself for dinner at Southern Junction, a James Beard Award finalist, with soulful dishes inspired by the American South and South Asia; think smoky brisket and fried chicken. And if you still have gas in your tank, try Waxlight Bar à Vin, a haven for serious wine lovers and cocktail enthusiasts alike.