Hakone is a mountainous region renowned for its hot springs, scenic landscapes and views of Mount Fuji. The train from Tokyo to nearby Odawara Station takes just under two hours, and from there I’d recommend hiring a car to explore the area at your own pace.
I spent one night on Lake Ashi before staying two nights in a beautiful mid-century home tucked further into the mountains. A car allowed us to easily visit a sauna with spring water and views of Mount Fuji, an onsen that allows tattoos, access our stay in the forest of hakone sengokuhara overlooking a volcanic valley, and a soba restaurant where the owner ran us through how to correctly enjoy soba.
Mount Fuji is only clearly visible for around 80–120 days each year, so I’d recommend allowing an extra day in your itinerary if you can. Weather conditions can change quickly, and rain or cloud cover may completely obscure the mountain. I visited in mid-April.
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