Long Live the Jean

Denim has always been built to last. But the best pairs don’t just last—they evolve.

Since 2014, our denim trade-up program has taken back more than 2.3 million pairs of jeans, giving them another life through resale, reuse or recycling. For Earth Month, we spoke with two people who live this idea every day—Stephan Brovko of Shop Denim Revival and Susan Lee of Wilder Los Angeles—shop owners who believe that clothes should be loved forever, kept in rotation and passed down for generations.

On Stephan: Work Shirt in Japanese Chambray / The Vintage Tee / The 1991 Loose Straight Jean

MW: You spend your days surrounded by denim with history. What do you notice about the way great jeans age—and what makes a pair worth keeping alive?

Stephan Brovko: Personally, I think a great pair of jeans is one with a unique fade that tells a story. For example, an extremely old pair with strike marks on the back of the leg tells me that a rancher smoked and lit matches against their jeans. Similarly, a small tear in the pocket can show that someone carried a pocket knife there, or a square of fading might reveal a wallet carried in the back pocket. Things like this offer a peak into the past and how people used to live and do things.

Every pair is worth keeping alive, as long as you still find joy in wearing them.

MW: Vintage denim has already lived many lives before it reaches your shop. What do you love about the idea that clothes can keep moving through different people and eras?

SB: It’s amazing to see someone fall in love with something another person once abandoned or let go. Something that was left for nothing can be given a new life, bringing joy and happiness to someone else all over again.

In a sense, you’re wearing history. It reminds you that people in the past weren’t so different from us today.

MW: For someone building a wardrobe today, what’s your advice on finding denim that will actually get better with time?

SB: If you’re aiming to keep one pair for a long time, start with denim that’s as dark as possible. Wear the jeans consistently and watch the fades develop naturally over time. As you do, you’ll begin to see changes shaped by your daily habits, and in the end, the jeans will tell the story of your life.

On Susan: The Easy Shirt in Poplin / The Relaxed Tee in Vintage Jersey / Pieced Barrel Leg Jeans / The Oaklynne Sneaker / The Signature Woven Tote / Medium Silk Bandana

MW: You spend your days surrounded by denim with history. What do you notice about the way great jeans age—and what makes a pair worth keeping alive?

Susan Lee: Jeans are great storytellers. What gets me about a pair of vintage jeans every time is what they physically tell you about the life of the person who wore them: through the patina formed over time, the creases and whiskers, the highs and faded lows, every rip and tear and, of course, the softness that can only come from years of wear. Each pair tells a specific story, unique to both the jeans and the person who lived in them.

I also love that denim evolves over time. A great pair of jeans is like a painting that transforms through consistent wear; they’re worth keeping alive for that reason alone. You build a relationship with them—they grow older with you, evolve with you and become a piece of your art and a part of your story. That, to me, is what makes them worth keeping.

MW: Vintage denim has already lived many lives before it reaches your shop. What do you love about the idea that clothes can keep moving through different people and eras?

SL: First and foremost, I love the sustainable aspect of denim and clothing. By making garments last and recycling them—rather than disposing of them to sit in landfills—we reduce their impact on the earth we live on. This belief is the foundation on which Wilder Los Angeles was built.

My shop is also grounded in the core idea of style, not fashion. Fashion and style are two very different things. Fashion is like a pendulum, constantly swinging back and forth, while style is an anchor—it holds steady no matter where the pendulum swings. Great vintage clothing that moves through time speaks to style rather than fashion and will always stand the test of time.

MW: For someone building a wardrobe today, what’s your advice on finding denim that will actually get better with time?

SL: Make sure you choose denim that suits your personal style and not just current fashion trends. This is very important. Pay close attention to the details of how the denim is made, especially the fabric. A heavier-weight fabric will last longer and get better over time. And remember, great denim is an investment piece: it shouldn’t be cheap, it should be high quality. Invest in it, and it will last you a lifetime.