meet me in sonoma

I’m obsessed with Sonoma. Spending an entire weekend outside in the sun and in fresh air drinking wine? My dream date. And a welcome respite after my week long work trip in San Francisco. Just know if I lived in the Bay, I’d be in Sonoma (or Napa) ~every~ weekend.

(Also, side bar: we rented a Tesla for the trip. Why didn’t anyone tell me Tesla drivers literally…don’t drive. You’re telling me I can have a car that drives me around?!! Not a want but a need.)

Every single Bay Area person I mentioned this trip to asked: well, are you going to Napa OR Sonoma? Technically we were staying in Sonoma and having dinner in Yountville, and they’re right next to each other, so…both?

Honestly, I was confused by the question, but have since learned to appreciate how different the regions are: Sonoma = relaxed, boutique-y, while Napa is luxury. Sonoma is also more spread out (e.g. Carneros, Russian River, Healdsburg, etc.) with varied wines (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Zinfandel). Napa is all about Cabernet Sauvignon.

I hadn’t really heard about Napa or Sonoma as a winter destination, but I’m a convert. The vines are barren and it can rain, but we got lucky with sunny days. Mornings were cold (40s-50s), but by afternoon it was in the 60s/low 70s. Lowkey, my favorite kinda weather.

It was super quiet (loved it). We did a few tastings on Friday and most places were empty. Saturday was busier but still manageable. I was able to make all our reservations just a few days before (unheard of in summer or fall when you need to book tastings and dinner reservations weeks (sometimes months) in advance). Sonoma is more chill than Napa, but even here it’s tricky to walk in anywhere or make last-minute reservations during peak season. If you’re a go-with-the-flow traveler, you’ll love winter.

Also, I genuinely cannot imagine being here in summer heat drinking red wine. Makes way more sense as a cozy season destination.

We were originally going to stay at The Lodge (after being heartbroken by MacArthur Place’s astronomical rates). I wasn’t satisfied with that choice because I really wanted a boutique inn vibe, so I turned to searching every inch of Sonoma on Google Maps for alternatives and found Casia Inn.

It opened in May and is a mix of inn and roadside motel, but all the rooms are cottage-style. As soon as I found it, I cancelled our existing reservation and booked a suite for around $300/night. A massive find because there was literally nothing else at this price point for a holiday weekend.

This place was so quiet while we were there (my dream). Felt like we had it to ourselves. They serve a European-style breakfast buffet each morning, there’s a pool (which will be heated in winter going forward), and they’re planning to add a spa and gym. It would be an amazing property to rent out for a family or group trip and obviously perfect for a couples trip or girls trip. The owner is a real estate agent and interior designer who also owns a pottery studio, so the property is filled with large pottery pieces.

The entrance isn’t amazing (it’s right off Arnold Drive, a main street in Sonoma), but we asked for a quieter room and didn’t hear any street noise (I’m a VERY light sleeper). There’s no restaurant on property, but it’s only maybe 15 minutes from downtown Sonoma. You’ll want a car to explore (free parking, which cannot be said for other hotels in the area). AND they have Flamingo Estate products, and I’ve been converted from skeptic to huge fan.

There are plenty of stellar hotels throughout Sonoma County (e.g. Dawn Ranch in Russian River or Sea Ranch Lodge on the coast), but I’m focusing on downtown Sonoma since that’s where we stayed and explored. With a few exceptions for hotels high on my “I’d plan a trip around this hotel” list.

MacArthur Place - Truly so obsessed with this place and wanted to stay here badly. Very cute, well-located. Probably one of the best hotels in Sonoma and a great combination of luxury, design and service. The restaurant Layla’s is also superb and the lobby bar has a fun vibe. We got drinks here and besides the 49ers fumbling their playoff game, the vibes were immaculate and the food menu is great. Saving this one for my next trip. (At one point was pretty affordable but I feel like prices have 2x’d in the past year, sigh.)

The Lodge at Sonoma - the location is unbeatable if you want to walk to restaurants and wine bars. Right on Sonoma Plaza. Has a pool and spa, good for a more traditional hotel experience (Marriott Autograph Collection).

El Dorado - one of our servers at Sangiacomo Vineyards recommended as her favorite boutique hotel in Sonoma. Also well-located in the Plaza and also has an amazing restaurant.

Farmhouse Inn - Russian River Valley, about 45 minutes north + nature immersive. Michelin-starred restaurant on property, very romantic, but more secluded. Same owners as MacArthur Place.

The Madrona - 23 rooms in Healdsburg. Two Michelin keys! The property mixes the original mansion with a carriage house and some restored bungalows from the 1800s, so every room feels different. Design-forward but still romantic and cozy. Obsessed!

SingleThread Farm Inn - just five rooms above their three-Michelin-starred restaurant in downtown Healdsburg. The rooms are Japanese-inspired minimalism, but the experience centers around their tasting menu (I think it’s 10 courses?), which changes daily based on what’s being harvested from their farm.

(Honorable mention for Dawn Ranch + Sea Ranch Lodge <3333)

Sangiacomo - my favorite tasting of the trip. The founder immigrated from Italy to Sonoma in the early 1900s. The family has been farming the same land for nearly 100 years (!!) and it’s currently run by the third and fourth generations. They have over 1,500 acres across Sonoma and supply grapes to many wine producers in the region. A huge operation that still feels very small, family-owned, and local (not corporate at all). We had the most fun server who walked us through the entire family history and was so generous with her knowledge about the wines. We ended up shipping a few bottles home. Highly recommend!

Bloom Carneros - We did lunch and a tasting here. The food was delicious—very chill outdoor space with a restaurant and small tasting area. Liked the food more than the wine, but great for a relaxed afternoon.

Gloria Ferrer - Definitely more of a corporate feel, but I love sparkling wine so I was here for it. Cute place to sit outside with appetizers. We tried the octopus and it was actually amazing but tiny for $40 lol.

Viansa - This one was okay. I was excited about the Italian deli attached, but I didn’t really love my food and there weren’t many non-meat options. The menu was lighter than expected: a few sandwich options, pasta salad, burrata, maybe two other things. The view is beautiful and they have firepits.

My tasting strategy: I’d recommend two per day. I tried to squeeze in three but we really enjoyed lingering and not rushing through tastings (and avoiding getting too tipsy). A tasting at noon and one at 2/2:30pm was perfect, then bookending with brunch in the morning and a nice 5/6pm dinner (winter = early dinners, I don’t make the rules).

Soooo many to choose from!

Scribe Winery - Didn’t go here but it was literally recommended by EVERYONE. I reached out to book but by the time they replied, I’d already booked our other tastings and didn’t feel like shuffling. They mentioned they’re flexible with non-members in the off season when it’s not as busy (otherwise you need to be a member to visit).

Iron Horse Vineyards - sparkling wine + gorgeous views in the Green Valley (about 30 minutes from Sonoma). Perfect if you love sparkling wine as much as I do.

Domaine Carneros - château-style winery in Carneros that specializes in sparkling wine

Abbot’s Passage - small production winery, family-owned

Anaba - right across the street from Casia Inn, they have a tasting option that includes an hour or two of pickleball which I thought was so fun

Landmark Vineyards - two tasting rooms, gorgeous grounds!!

RH Restaurant Yountville - we went here for dinner. It’s a massive compound with a design gallery, rooftop restaurant, wine vault, and tasting room. I neeeed to return to do a tasting in their wine vault, very chic, very fancy.

Will be adding a weekend in wine country to every SF trip! Always collecting new recommendations, so let me know your favorite places to stay, vineyards, and restaurants up there.

I’m Waverly, a travel writer and trip designer based in LA. For more in-the-moment content, follow along on Instagram. If this kind of experience speaks to you, let’s chat and plan something special 🤍

Until next time xx