The Totem Pole Under the Milky Way

You can&rsquo;t just drive to this one. The Totem Pole and the spires around it sit deep in the Monument Valley backcountry, on Navajo land you don&rsquo;t get to wander into on your own. To stand here at night you go in with a Navajo guide who knows the way and has every right to say no. I went on a photographers&rsquo; trip led by one, out past the parts of the valley the tour vans reach, to a…