Can Chez Panisse Change With the Times? Does It Need To?

The Times reviews the new Bar Panisse, as well as its more famous next door neighbor. This is a glorious bit of food writing, and makes me want to stand in the “chatty line of locals.” Sit down at Chez Panisse and dinner starts, just like that. No scripted introduction, no mission statement, no spiel. Not even a little, “Have you dined with us before?” If you didn’t already know that Alice Waters…