Germany Used to Know How to Change

I grew up in Houilles, a suburb of Paris, and my first real encounter with Germany was a trip to Berlin when I was about sixteen. I was visiting my penpal Juliane. I remember thinking I wanted to be there forever. The city felt like an infinite canvas, raw and open and full of possibility. The remnants of the Wall were everywhere, and what struck me wasn&rsquo;t just the history but how Germany…